London: Tea Time in Wonderland

If East Highgate has won you completely, be prepared to be amazed.

The Victorians were very keen on the idea of social status. You had be seen (if you could not come to a furneral, it was polite to send you car, even empty to, er, represent you) , recognised, admired – even through your eternal sleep, mind you.This last spark of glory would shine on your surviving family. Don’t forget people used to come here for a walk. A skillfully sculpted grave would be noticed, talked of. The closer to the entrance gate, the better… and the more expensive. On e would buy a plot, a vault way ahead, preferably when still healthy.

Graves were therefore like a business card. It was common to indicate a clue about your late profession. A general asked for a fence using fake reversed cannons and miniature cannon balls. Coachman Selyby, famous for breaking the record of the fastest time between London and Brighton (07 hours and 50 minutes) wished a whip on his.

See this one? The gentleman owned a menagerie. he started with just a boa, going around pubs to show it against a few coins. In three months, he had the snake’s price back. He therefore added an animal to his collection, etc… Meet Nero, a lovely lion born in captivity and so tame children could ride on his back…

You will come accross impressive vaults and mausoleums. Another alternative for status indication would be a church tower…

Victorians loved symbols (see here for a few). Greeks already used the urn, covered by a veil, supposed to contain the deceased’s soul. But how was it supposed to join its creator? It was decided that the veil should be present out of respect but should be revealing the urn slightly.

This gothic cemetery is famous for its romantic, eerie atmosphere. Even more invaded by nature that its neighbour, it seems to cut you completely from the outside world. Accessible only through a guided tour, you will rarely meet anyone else. Woods are much denser, branches closing above the paths. You could get lost in here. I am joining the last tour of the day, the sun has started setting down, and coolness is crawling around your legs, slowly creeping up. A moist humus scent is all around. You feel as if you have stepped into a haunted movie somehow…

Napoleonic wars brought a certain fascination for Egypt. here and there raise obelisks, often invaded by ivy, like exotic plants. The path now takes you to the Egyptian avenue, the most impressive part of the cemetery. Why don’t you come in?

The long corridor opens on a cercle of doors, each sheltering vaults. Those are not full – yes, Egypt was trendy but hum… did you want such a pagan theme to shadow your soul? have a closer look – papyrus and lotus leaves, down turned torches of life. Keys are to be put upside down in the locks.

Now look up – right above you is a majestic Cedar – 300 years old – which was there way before the cemetary. It does impose respect. These quarters were actually dug around it. Imagine the giant roots right behing the walls, getting in any crack they can find… You are surrounded by total silence – are there no birds? Instinctively, you catch up with your group. Not surprising that Stoker, the author of Dracula, used the place as inspiration… Late 60ies, there actually was a belief a real vampire lived around – some animal carcasses had been found drained of their blood… Hammer horror movies also used the location as a background and more recently, you can get a glimpse of it in the latest Dorian Gray.

Catacombs possibly create the most effect on visitors. A number will prefer to stay outside. the guide grabs a torch and leads you inside, showing the line of wooden coffins from the 19th, some falling apart. apparently they were pushed feet first – much lighter this way and you really wanted t think you were speaking to the head of a relative, dead as they might be. A couple of lucarns offer a greyish light. An extraordinary quantity of moss and roots had to be removed fto set them free. Gazing up, you can’t help but wonder how many meters of earth are above you. I’d hate to be here on a rainy day.

The tour follows a strict itinerary (although you can ask in advance to see a specific grave). It would be so tempting to just wander around – such a range of statues, of styles! The atmosphere is so eerie you wouldn’t be surprised to see a beldame wlk by in last century costume…

A must-see.

Highgate Cemetery
Swain’s Lane
London
N6 6PJ

The west side only can be visited through a tour. Do check the website for time – this is still a working cemetery and tours will be cancelled if a burial is taking place.

Warning: kids under 8 cannot join the tour. But maybe a friend or a relative will be happy to take them to the nearby park to play?

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