London: Tea Time in Wonderland

An ideal address for Pancakes day, by the way!

I love all kind of cooking but know little of Hungarian dishes. I discovered recently they do amazing pancakes…

Let me tell you of the Gay Hussar and how it conforted me of a freezing weather.

We had just stepped and the staff was already welcoming us warmly. In this cosy, wooden room, a whole wall is covered by caricatures of politicians. The address was a lonf time key for politics dinners (less nowadays) – each drawing was made onsite and signed by the star. As in Harry Potter, I expected them to start talking from one frame to another, arguing major issues! The opposite side is mirrored and reflects the collection of frames, allowing each guest to enjoy them. Above the counter is a huge shelves covered in books. A very cosy effect and you feel quite at home straight away.

It is only 19.30 and the restaurant is filling up quickly. I discreetly listen to the other tables’ conversations -  most already know the place and have come back with friends. The Gay Hussar have more than 50 years of experience, mind you, and in a city that sees restaurants opening and closing in a snap, that is worth an award already!

We start by a small celebration – two shots of schnapps, pretty strong, which really wake us up and reminds us of our university years. Makes you feel 10 years younger! This one has a lovely apricot note which makes you click your tongue in appreciation. We watch the staff navigating from one table to another, making sure no ones is in need of anything. There is a perfect attention to details: basket of fresh bread, lemon slices in the glasses of water…

We are feeling pretty classic tonight and opt for the famous Gulyásleves, a beef goulash (£6.50), spiced with paprika. A velvety stock, wonderful when you have almost turned blue outside, so comforting! You actually could do with this and a few slices of bread for a home dinner, adding a little background music and a good book.

And if you are one of the brave ones, why not add a little fresh chilli? You’ll find some on your table when you arrive. We love the haindpainted plates too!

We also test the Hoto Bagyi Husos Palacsinta, a savoury pancake filled with chicken (£6.25) and served with a parika sauce. This national dish was even voted in 2010 like one of the 10 favourites in Hungary! Great match with the soured cream which cuts with the smoothness of it, nice aromatic parsley touch on top. It’s gone in a few forksfull…

We ask the manager’s advice on wines who brings us a bottle of A Kutya Fáját (£20.50). He certainly is a passionate and pours it straight in a carafe in front of us to open it up. A very rare gesture – although I do this at home with most of my red wines, I actually have never seen any restaurant do this. This one may seem light at the first sip but is in fact pretty complex. Lovely notes of red fruit, dark cherry, raspberries… Matured in oak barrels, it keeps a wooden touch, almost smoked which really adds to the taste. St Andre, who produce it, are working more and more with biodynamics and have even been awarded Best Hungarian Winemaker in 2009.

We continue with a different type of goulasj, called Özporkölt (£15.95) – a stew version, made with venison. The meat is so tender you could cut it with a spoon… I was familiar with the cooked red cabbage – although I never succeed to make it that moist – but discovered the tarhonya, tiny Hungarian egg pasta. Dip them in the sauce for extra flavour and add a slice of pickled gherkin!

Pancakes day in mind, I’m onto a whole pancake meal. This is the Özporkölt (£15.95), filled with a gorgeous veal goulash. The topping is suprising, pretty crunchy and no matter how much you love the creamy potatoes, you always get back to it… The sauce is nice and rich, the filling texture evry meaty.

The dishes are pretty filling (quite a good point -  I hate restaurant who focus on a modern, beautiful presentation, with so little portions you feel hungry as soon as you are home) but when we saw this Erdei Gyümolcs Szelet (£5.25) , we just could not resist trying the deserts…

What about pancakes, then? Ah, this is pancake heaven for sure. And believe me, us froggies have a whole range of them. I started with the Gundel Palacsinta (£4.95) – inside is a almost caramelised sauce with walnuts pieces… Matched with a little chocolate sauce on top. But my favourite definitely is Túrós Palacsinta (£4.95), light as a cloud and which reminded me of cheesecakes: Hungarian cottage cheese whipped in a cream, flavoured with lemon juice and with raisins for extra texture. Would have this one anytime.

We stayed very traditional/pancake oriented for this visit. But the menu offers quite a nice range of dishes that took our fancy as soon as we saw them going to other tables. the aromas were frankly mouth-watering! On our list for next time are the wild cherry soup, the roast duck, the strudel with poppy seeds…

Extra points for: the attention to details, the staff kindness for every table, the very filling portions, the advices always giving us a bit of background too, the delicious feeling of being elsewhere. An address I keep preciously in my book.

The Gay Hussar
2 Greek Street
London
W1D 4NB

Teatime in Wonderland was a guest of The Gay Hussar

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