London: Tea Time in Wonderland

I am often asked for advice on restaurants, preferably romantic ones, even better close to specific hotels. Not so easy – that calls for quite a big address book!

However, for your next stay in Notting Hill or if you are lucky to live there, try Dragoncello. A step aside from the touristic scene, it is a welcome oasis away from the Portobello crowd on a week-end…

A little more than a month old, it settled on a street corner. Small but how so very cute! A handful of tables, a tiny kitchen where everything has its exact place, two shop windows for extra light. it lloks like a little jewel. Forget stereotypes for Italian restaurants, you will not find any red and white table cloth on cheap furniture here! On the contrary, the plates have been laid carefully, the glasses sparkles, candles bring a softer touch, the light is dimmed. It is all about elegance.

We are brought crunchy crostinis, thin as lace, with a layer of broadbean hummus, enhanced with pecorino and mint: very different, very refreshing, just what you need to stop drooling while reading through the menu. I fell in love with the home made bread, so tender, flavoured with thyme and rosemary as well as the extra tasty gressinis…

The kitchen is getting busy. The limited space also means limited storage and that is good news for us: fresh products are brought in daily, everything made on site, from pasta to sauces. A simple test to feel the difference is on my starter – oven roasted aubergine with tomato sauce, melted mozzarella and parmesan… (£9.50). Moist, fragrant, one of those simple looking dishes that win your stomach in no time. Add to this a sip of the house wine – red fruit, redcurrant, zesty: ah, a chimney fire and a few cushions and the place would feel just like home!

We also test the carpaccio (£13.50) – delicate slices of beef, a dash of truffle oil to bring more caracter, a touch of rosemary dressing and big parmesan shavings… Light but oh-so-fragrant.

The team navigates around us, checking regularly whether we need anything, even brushing crumbs off when taking the plates away. We continue with an interesting dish of taglionis with crab (£11.20). The pasta is exquisite, again home made, melting in the mouth. Not a forkful with a good dose of juicy crab meat. Nice parsley touch on top.

I alternate with my friend’s gnocchis (£9.50). I usually am cautious with those – nothing worse than a floury texture, kills it all. But those are perfect, very tender with a fabulous cherry tomato and mozzarella sauce, one of those you finish with pieces of bread…

Sadly, minutes before desert, we fell full, jusy fully satisfied. Portions are deceptive and prove very filling (let alone we could not resist eating all the bread). Out of sheer professional duty (of course), we share a pannacota. Surprising, lovely creamy texture, it is flaboured with almonds, a welcome change from the usual vanilla.

Even tea proves attention to details – the Earl grey si served in a gorgeous Sophie Conran teapot and we are brought a plate of yummy cantuccis, Tuscan biscotti like treats, almonds and pistachios aplenty…

Verdict? A real pleasure to find on the menu different dishes from risottos and lasagnas – the choices are more moderm, more refined. An adorable neighbourhood address to which we wish lots of success. Already, locals seem to make a canteen of it!

Dragoncello
104a, Chepstow Rd
Notting Hill
London W2 5QS

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