London: Tea Time in Wonderland

A beautiful spring day: not a cloud in view, cherry tree blossoms fallong in a poetic rain, euphotia in the streets, T-shirts and summer tops, ice crem cones, open windows everywhere. The market people are putting their stalls away and Notting Hill is cliaming its village atmosphere back.

A to Z in hand, we stroll through the neighbourhood, a detour this way, a look a shop here, a amile at a very kitsch detail there. A look at the address – we are on our way to a tea house, which should be a blue and white two storey house, with a tree in its cobbled yard… It inducates it is neither the corner building, nor the number 14 and should be close to number one. A few hesitations, a shy look through a window but yes, we knock at the right door.

I have often hear that tea helps you forget the noises of the world and it is so true here. As if the world outside gradually faded away as you step further in the homey room. The wooden furniture has been imported from China and chosen for having had a life, a history (or, as Axelle put it perfectly, a soul). One of those is callous on each side as it was often carried on horseback and therefore polished by the shape of the animal… Every detail isnpires refinement and elegance.

I used to visit tea houses in Paris – I relise today how much I have missed those. Nothing is more soothing than the preparation ritual. Each style of tea will have a different teapot. Hot water is then poured into each recipient to warm them up (those little details make all the difference to a perfect tea), dose and dmire the leaves, add water, infuse, add the remaining liquid on the top of the clay: when it dries out, enjoy sips of your tiny delicate cup… No need to be an expert -  Pei will kindly explain it all with elegant gestures.

Now savour as you would a good wine – first the nose, then the tastebuds, giving time to open in steps… I had chosen the deep steamed sencha, velvety, a light jade colour, with mango aromas. Axelle had preferred the Honey Orchid Phoenix, a complexe Oolong which sweetness takes you by surprise, evoking orange blossom and vanilla. I just love those clear, authentic tastes so far away from teabags, often chemically fragranced.

The menu proposes a delicate afternoon tea which marries savoury notes such as those homemade noodles, hightened with just a little chilli, picklend bamboo shoots, cucumber slices and a rich peanut based sauce…

…as well as sweet treat: white tea and rose madeleines, tangy clementine almond cakes, flower shaped matcha shortbreads – as fragrant as they are cute. Yes, there is scone as well, lovely light texture served with clotted cream and the most exquisite rose petal comfit, mad with just a little crunchy sugar: to-die-for.

A last sweet before we leave, those surprising truffles, chocolate with a toffee melting heart that makes you mmmmh in happiness…

Pei discreetly takes care of everyone and takes the time to share his passion. I cannot thank him enough for his patience as I clicked and clicked my camera and for proposing extra light if needed…

One of those rare addresses, away from the tourist route where you can unwind totally, breathe again and re-energize.

Afternoon tea – £9, including a tea, a savoury choice and 3 sweet ones.

Teanamu opens at week-ends only for the moment and also offers cooking with tea and tea-tasting workshops – have a look at the website!
Coach house
14A St Lukes Rd
Next to 1 Lancaster rd
London W11 1DP

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