London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Tired of big cities buzz, of too rushed a rythm, of a filled to the rim agenda?

Escape. Take a few days for yourself, get your energy back. Go right on the border of the New Forest, at Chewton Glen. Just two hours car from London and you could be there, having driven through the soothing woods, enchanted at having met with free horses on the way.

Pass the forged iron entrance -  look on the side, what a beautiful lawn. This 5 star hotel, a gem in the Relais et Chateaux collection, is surrounded by 130 acres of park, tennis court, a golf… It takes the gardeners 39 hours a week to mow it all.

It will not take you long to fall in love with the space – the multitude of cosy lounges, the terrace opening on the green croquet lawn, the width of the hotel that calls for exploring it… up to the rooms which offer an average of 40 square meters! Each has its own atmosphere and is bathed in natural light. Mine was inspired by Miller Harris botanical patterns, both on wallpaper and fabric for a complete harmony.

VIP, celebrating an anniversary? Discuss it with the hotel before your visit -  they can add the extra touches to the room to make it memorable. Chocolate, sparkling wine, treats (the homemade flapjacks, generous in butter and cranberries are to die for), information pack on the hotel and activities – the team is eager to help. A simple example -  I arrived early. In most hotels, you would leave your luggage at reception, would come back later. Instead, they sat me comfortably with a cup of tea, called their cleaning team and asked how long they expected it to be. Details that make the whole difference to your stay -  you know you can trust them completely and let go.

Gold rooms (and above) have their own balcony or terrace. Some will have a formidable view on the park – you will feel like settling there, in the sun, sipping tea or wine, with a book or a friend and spend your afternoon doing nothing. And listen – there isn’t a noise, no traffic, just birds.

I rarely take pictures of bathrooms -  the angle is tricky, how can I make it look good? But this one is definitely worth mentioning. You could almost call it a suite. The room is divided in three -  on your left are  separated toilets with a bidet. In front, a wide shower with two shower heads for massaging options. And last, on your right is the “classical” part -  two sinks to make couples’ life easier, pink marble and… a large bath with television. A formidable luxury that I have encountered a few times and lavish on. Just imagine yourself before going to bed, a few drop of essential oil and your favourite program, head on a rolled towel for comfort.

On the side are some organic REN products – those leave an amazing soft skin, soothing even the most fragile one. Already a fan of their rose bath oil, I could discover more of their range here. Their shampoo and conditioner use oat and bay leaf. Buy those quick: hair is silky and light after this, no need for any extra styling product, just a comb to put them perfectly in place.

During your stay, do take the time to stop at the spa, voted by Condé Nast Traveller the very best of England. Two big names are represented here. First is beauty guru Linda Meredith, acclaimed by celebs such as Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow  for the radiance she gives back to the skin. You will also find  who work on both Ila mind and body, looking to restore the balance between the two. A holistic approach that starts will the purest organic products possible, Damaskan rose, Argan oil… as they will be better absorbed by the cellsAll concoctions are blended in the Cotswold with the greatest care.

I am here to try the Ananda (bliss in Sanskrit) facial treatment. Surprisingly, this starts by the feet, massaged gently with Himalayan salts. The reason? To ground you with the earth but also to gently detox the skin and work on reflexology points. A wonderful idea that relaxes the whole body before focusing on the face. Follow 45 minutes of happiness. Wave after wave of caresses on your cheekbones, neck, shoulders -  you will feel wrapped in silky oil, made warm by the touch. In turn, a mask, clensing milk, tonic are used, fresher, tonifying. Asian music in the background erases any thought from your mind. I felt… strangerly rebalanced, all sensed wide awake, tiredness wiped away. A look in the mirror and exceptional decision, I decided not to use any make-up, the best compliment for a skin treatment!

No need to rush back to the real world – a relaxation room on the side welcomes you and allows you to enjoy this soothing sensation a little longer. Sit in one of the comfy chairs, put the headphones on for some music and watch the galazy above you change colours. It takes minutes to fall asleep.

A little further still is the indoor swimming pool (another one is available outside in the summer). Enriched in ozone (so very little chlorine, this is much gentler on oyur skin and hair) and at constant temperature, this is pure heaven for people like me who always find water too cold and usually give up after just a toe in the water. Not only did I swim happily, I also came back after dinner (as it stays open till 22.00) and even woke up extra early the following day to enjoy it a last time.

It is pure bliss to float in the trees reflection with painted skies above you. At night, you can even see stars twinkling. No doubt people cover more lengths here than anywhere else in the country.

You can, alternatively, opt for hydrotherapy with 6 different water pressure systems to try. Plan plenty of time. Surrounded by garden, it is easy to spend the whole afternoon chatting there. There also is an outdoor whirlpool – we loved it at twilight.

Fancy a pause? Just enjoy a magazine on one of the chairs around, designed for maximum comfort…

….or stop at the café (the menu proposes a wide list of healthy meals and snacks) and enjoy outside on the deck on a sunny day…

Another option, if you are in for a full treat, is to try the hotel delicate afternoon tea. Just choose which side of the garden you prefer:

This of course, includes all the classics we love. Sandwiches with cream cheese and cucumber slices, fantastic salmon, chicken filling… are served on tender seedy bread. you can count on plenty of fine pastries too:  light, gorgeous fruit cake, unforgettable plum tart on vanilla cream, brioche with chantilly and strawberries. On starts nibbling gently then sugar crazyness kicks in and you take bigger bites with utmost pleasure. Locals come here too – the atmosphere is perfect to catch up with friends.

A wide palette of tastes and this, of course, concludes with scones, still warm at the heart and extra generous in raisins, The clotted cream was decorated with a fresh strawberry and I can only recommend to add some fresh fruit on top of the jam, how gorgeous! Try the house tea blend -  the strength of an assam yet more velvety. A nice alternative to the classics, more refreshing too and slendid with just a touch of milk.

Being a mum of two, I am particularly touched that Chewton Glen is child friendly. Those are their own time at the swimming pool, juniors can enjoy adapted treatments at the spa, changing tables are available on the ground floor, kids slippers and robes are provided. Close to the terrace is a tree house to climb and invent adventures in unless they’s rather try croquet. During school holidays they can enjoy a special activity club. Many come here as a whole family: little ones, parents, grandparents as it is so easy to enjoy time as a small or bigger group.

With so much park around, there are walks aplenty to enjoy. even better, the beach is a at a mere 10mn walks (15 with kids). Nothing better than this to finish the day and what a pleasure to have so much to do without having to step back into a car!

The path will suddenly open on the seaside with kilometers of beach to walk along. Some jog, others enjoy a romantic walk. This is the Jurassic coast, protected by UNESCO so there is plenty to marvel at even if you are staying a few days.

 

 

Sunsets are particularly amaing here. From pink, the sky can turn to liquid gold, as if the landscape had caught on fire. Those pictures have not been modified -  neither the colours nor the contrasts. As if you had stepped into an exotic brochure while knowing you are in the South of England on a autumn evening.

The day has already gone by -  it is time to walk back, put the shells collected in your room and head down for dinner. The Chef, Luke Matthews, has been working here since 1993. Inspired by local specialties, he also loves to create more contemporary recipes that will make your tastebuds go wow.

The Vetiver offers two atmospheres.  A bigger room, beautifully lit but also cosier tables in the nearby room, with curved aniseed banquettes. You might be here for a romantic dinner or a business one -  you will be seduced by how peaceful the place is, how easy it is to discusss the menu, the hostory of the building with the team, as if you were a regular. You can be sure they will look after you well and do take great ride in compliments over the dishes.

The decoration is pretty elegant, lovely play on curves and joyful colours. Cute touch with the rabbit napking holders that bring a smile to everyone’s face.

Now, be prepared to be enchanted. As a starter, I chose a white asparagus and artichoke salad. The latter is so rarely served in the UK and I miss it terribly from France. Slightly crunchy, enhanced with baby leeks and carrots, pickled onions a touch of slat and a drizzle of top quality olive oil, this is simply superb. For the Provencal touch, micro-herbs and fennel seeds… With some of the home bakes almond and raisin bread, you will not want to leave a simgle drop/crumb.

The sommelier proved a real magician. I usually have nor problem matching food with wine. But with such an unusual salad followed with duck breast, what to have? Not only will he find me amazing wines – he showed true passion for his job and could explain how those were produced and matured. He could visualise the vineyards, the grapes. I can’t thank him enough

And so I discovered this New Zealand Malborough wine -  a Sauvignon 2009 by Seresin. The place is divided in 19, harvested and matured separately before being assembled, adding to the complexity of the wine -  like creating music form different notes. Very herbacious with dancing notes of cumin, vanilla, lime. It lingers in the mouth -  one you should definitely find on any winelist.

Next came the perfectly cooked duck breast -  pink as I had asked -  crusty salty skin. I will have to admit -  and this, being a froggie does cost me -  that Devonshire duck does compete quite well with the south of France one. On the side, a chicory Tatin, slightly caramelised pastry, lovely blood orange jus. I expected the vegetable to be bitter yet it proved sweet, melting at the heart. All this was on a peppery bed if courgette. I had chosen a heritage tomato salad for a refreshing touch -  such a nice selection of colours and fragrances, with young basil leaves on top.

The wine caught light magnificently and I played with the glass for a long time. This Ce Palazzo dela torre allegrini offers a fascinating velvery texture, red fruit and pepper, lots of sun, oaky finish. I kept it for desert too without a single regret.

Cheese lovers will not resist the British selection. Grape, celery, apricots, chutney, port -  difficult to know where to start!

I preferred a sweet conclusion to the meal – a lighter one too with this rice pudding, flavoured with coconut milk and Indian Alphonso mango: vanilla seeds, coconut spiral, fruit compote and mango crisp. A little jewel.

You can only sigh in happiness after such a day. A quick swim and I go back to my room, prepared for the night, welcoming bed, bottle of water on the side, dimmed lights on, try offering remote, weather forecast and activities advice./span>

I had to pinch myself when waking up -  had I dreamt it all? No -  outside, the mist was still clinging to the grass, birds were waking up. The newspaper was waiting just outside the door.

Tables were facing the park, the first ray of sunshine lighting up the top of the trees.

Breakfast here is a grand affair with a wide selection og charcuterie, home bakes pastries and bread, separate fruit salads for you to create your ideal mix, even granola pots. Hot dishes can be ordered, of course: farm eggs, New forest sausages, black pudding, vegetarian options, poached haddock or even a mountain of waffles. And silver teapots. Just amazing - stretch the moment, gazing outside, admiring it all.

 

A last look, a sigh, work was waiting. On the way out, I caught a glimps of the collection of wellies for guests wishing to go for a walk (kids versions are available too). Oh, how nice it must be to start the day so! The boutique sells a lovely selection of guides on the region.

The reception staff is obviously used to their guests’ nostalic look  and made the day much better with a map to avoid the traffic, a bottle of water and delicious cookies to be eaten on the way back.

Well, heaven definitely is here. Next year, rooms in the trees will open -  all luxury of course -  even more magic is on the way!

Chewton Glen Country House Hotel and Spa Resort
New Milton
New Forest
Hampshire BH25 6QS

Teatime inewonderland was a guest of Chewton Glen

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