London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Once upon time, London was a much smaller place. Each borough increased in size until meeting the city. Can you imagine Lambeth as a muddy countryside?

The simple life became a town one. In 1800 -  a million people were living in the capital. In 1850 – 2.3 millions, what a jump!

Faced with this ever increasing populations, the graveyards around little churches just cannot cope. Bodies are buried a metre from the ground, with basic decorum: ideal for body snatchers.

That explains why cemeteries often look, well, crowded… How do you get from one grave without stepping on another one?

In 1832, the government finally decides to move and settles for a ring of cemeteries around London, also known as the Magnificent Seven: Kensal Green, West Norwood, Highgate (a real jewel, I hear), Nunhead, Brompton, Abney Park, Tower Hamlets will open between 1837 and 1841.

Some see is as a real opportunity. A protected, kept, green place: middle class decide to bury their beloved in style and show the social status of their family through elaborate graves. Marble, sculptures…

These days, it is not so much used as a cemetery than a lovely place for a walk. Large alleys sheletered by trees. In spring, bluebells and daffodils.In fact, you’ll be suprised to meet quite a few football fans: the Chelsea stadium is right behind. Do visit the place on amatch day. The atmosphere is surreal! One minute, you’re enjoying the quietness, listeming to a robin chirp happily. The next, a goal has been marked and you hear the loud clamour of the stadium as if you were in it. quite a new dimension!

Another amazing detail -  Beatrix Potter used to live nearby and loved strolling around. She actually used names on the graves for her book characters: you’ll find here a Mr Nutkins, a Mr McGregor, a Jeremiah Fisher, and even… a Peter Rabbett. It is even said that the enclose wall inspired her for the one in McGregor’s garden.

Of course, you’ll find plenty of crosses around, some celtic, other greeks. Angels too…

And many symbols the Victorians loved.

A few:
A rosebud wuld be for a child – half opened for a teenager – fully bloomed, someone in their twenties. Several and you can calculate their age.
Urns usually meant an ossuary, garlands redemption.
Dog symbolised loyalty.
A wreath, eternal memory. Laurel was kept for the elitehaving received a distinction in arts, litterature…

Birds symbolised the winged spirit, flying to heaven. A dove with an olive branch would mean hope.

See those three intricate letters, almost a symbol: IHS? Those were for Jesis Our Saviour in Greek. So much smarter to add little touches of your faith in mysterious ways…
My favourite are those hands. Look closely @ the first picture. A handshake is easy -  a goodbye. But the sleeves are different, you see? A frilly one would be a woman’s, buttons a man’s – obviously a couple. The person who died first clasps the living’s hand, which remained open. Here, the gentlemane died first. A finger gesturing downward mean a sudden death.

There also are plenty of marine symbols. My first thought was a seaman… But look at the last one – poor little Rose, 18 months… An anchor with a cut chained meant the interrupted life too.

Many graves look completely abandonned. There has been talks of cleaning them. Quite a polemic as they shelter a fascinating collection of insects and birds. Migrating ones love to stop here too. Even families of foxes live in the catacombs!

Oh, and you rarely will be on your own. The squirrels are used to visitors and will quickly make their way to you (or any food you might have)….

Brompton Cemetery

The friends of Brompton Cemetery propose a guided tour every second and fourth Sunday of the month – only £4!
Finborough Road
London, SW10

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