London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Booking a gorgeous afternoon tea in on the 5* hotels in London can drive you close to tears – you’d better plan weeks (if not months for the top ones) in advance.

An alternative to cope with the frustration is to try the Wolseley, neighbour to the Ritz. Of course, the addess is well known and often full but I have always been lucky around 14.00-15.00.

The atmosphere takes me back to the cafes in Vienna. The attention to detail, the golden touches, the art deco style, the amber light… Do prefer the small room on the left to the entrance. Cosier and you can glimpse at the bigger room’s counter through the window and see the afternoon tea towers all ready to be served. Mouthwatering and so elegant…

In the center, a round table presents today’s cake, all sheltered under a glass bell, like pretty jewels… Raspberry tart (my favoury, pastry, a layer of raspberry coulis, thick vanilla cream, a crown of raspberries), battenberg, kougloff, apple and poppyseed cake… I’m amazed you cannot see a round circle IN the floor where customers have circled this again and again, unable to choose.

The list of teas is not extensive but is of premium quality. You’ll only find classics here: Earl Grey, Darjeeling, Ceylon, Assam, Jasmine, Green Tea… but the pleasure is in serving it. A huge silver teapot and silver milk jug, silver forks and spoons, silver tea strainer…

You can of course go for a cream tea (£9.75, fruit scone and tea), an afternoon tea (£19.75 – scones, sandwiches, pastry, tea), the champagne afternoon tea (£27.50, same as before but with a sparkling glass of Pommery champagne).

I prefer to come for breakfast. The pastries are deliciously French… croissants with butter, sugay bread wit Normandy butter, even my childhood pastry from Bordeaux, a cannele… Or go for a brunch! This is where I first tried haggis and I fell in love with their peppery version served with fried duck eggs. Alternatively, go crazy, ask for the caviar omelette (£55 though)!

However the Wolseley was never meant to be an trendy cafe/restaurant. In 1921, this beautiful marble on the floor, those decorated arches and pillars sheltered a car showroom for the Wolseley brand. They bankrupted quickly – 1926 – the sold the palace to the Barclays Bank who settled there till 1999. This sweet oasis only welcomed hungry customers in 2003. Good for us shall I add. Now, will you want a cloud of milk in that tea?

The Wolseley
160 Piccadilly
London W1J9EB

Count £10 for a tea (the teapot serves 3 cups) and a lovely slice of cake. But oh! The luxury and pleasure of the moment!
Would you rather go for chocolate heaven? Try La Maison du Chocolat, just opposite Fortnum and Mason, a 5mn walk from there.

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