London: Tea Time in Wonderland

I love walking into pubs early for lunch – you know, when they are still empty. Before the buzzing noise of conversation, the ballet of waiters, the clinking of cutlery. At that point, the room is almost all mine and I can listen to what it has to say, butterfly from one detail to another.

The Avalon had the atmosphere of a legend book – as if still asleep, ready to be awaken by a magic wand. The glass roofs brought a powdered light in, filtered by the steampunk inspired chandeliers. On the walls, the aniseed wallpaper was tempered with cream tiles. All was soothing to the gaze. Wood, leather, copper – very Parisian bistrot with its succession of small tables, its comfortable banquettes yet with an uncomparable British elegance to it. It makes you feel like being a regular there, always sitting at the same table, the waiter knowing your name…

Look around – on the walls are articles, anecdotes, games, illustrations from newspapers of the beginning of the century, when drawings were the best alternative to photography. A great way to feed conversation.

Closer to the bar, decoration is more baroque and colourful. Easy to picture yourself reinventing the world with a pint or a whisky (if you are a fan – nice selection of Japanese ones!).

And when summer days will be back, a garden awaits you at the back, ivy and bamboo, teck furniture, view on the nearby church. Suddenly, London feels miles away…

But come back to the table – our starter has just arrived. Delicate but rich slices of smoked salmon (£6.75) enhanced with stronger notes of shallots and pickled capers – those have been chopped to release their full flavour as soon as they touch your tastebuds. The Lambs’ lettuce brings a lovely peppery touch and the cream is infused with horseradish. Refreshing and suddenly very powerful: a wonderful idea I will try to recreate at home.

The wine menu is cleverly thought. Rather than boring you with a list of names and grapes, it is organised by quality: Floral & aromatic, Zesty, citrus & lively… This way, you can match your wine to your dish of choice as well as your mood. Indulge in a glass of Mud House, a New-Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Malborough). A cheerful drink, a little oak and lovely lime aroma that re-energises you straight away.

If you consider vegetarian cuisine to be dull and bland -  think again. The Avalon has created an amazing combination of courgette and aubergine (£11) stuffed with tender lentils, a little rosemary and topped with melted mozzarella. A mouthful will just make you forget about meat. Gorgeous, just gorgeous. Add a little pureed roasted peppers, sweet and exploding in flavour or the sauteed Chinese cabbage. A beautiful range of colours and textures, very filling too. Your 5 a day in a single plate.

A seasonal dessert felt like a must, why not the apple and plum crumble (£5.50)? Just thinking of it makes you feel like being in front of a chimney fire. This one offers a rich buttery topping, nice and crunchy. Underneath are whole pieces of fruit, tinted pink by the plum, rather than just compote. On top is a huge scoop of stem ginger ice-cream, very dense so that it will only melt slowly and give you plenty of time to enjoy the marriage of the three layers. A dessert that makes you love autumn. Try it with a fresh mint (£1.50) rather than a tea -  much more aromatic.

You will also find tables on the outside terrace – well, you might as well enjoy every ray of sunshine! The team has some blankets ready if you find it a little too chilly, just ask. This is a child friendly address too with a dedicated menu – a lovely place to come with the family on Sundays.

The Avalon belongs to the Renaissance pubs (Remember we had tried and loved The Rosendale). The name is well deserved  and moves away from pubs heavy with tacky decorations or sticky tables. This is a true gastropub, with the perfect balance between elegant decoration and fine food, no showing off, just a real, pleasant atmosphere. You can let go of the daily stress here and truly relax.

The Avalon
16 Balham Hill
South Clapham (A mere 5mn walk from the Tube, same street, just turn left)
London, SW12 9EB

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