London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Feel like a change of atmosphere? Stop for a meal at Dishoom to spice up your day. This, my friends, is the first Bombay Café in London with those little details that make you feel far away. Sepia pictures and traditional advertising on the walls, Indian writing on the clock, the blades of the ceiling fans turning slowly. And also the long tables with their line of adorable, vintage-style lamps, the blend of colours, the cosy, inviting banquettes on the side for lovers or smaller groups. There also is a room downstairs with seats under lovely arches and dimmed lighting. From your very first visit, this restaurant will go straight at the top of your favourite places, especially as you can come here for breakfast or just a cocktail.

Just mention the place to your relatives – fans will tell you to ask for the bhel (£3.90). This mix of puffed rice is a Bombay street food classic, usually served in a paper cone or in a little bread. Oh, such colours, such flavours! The rice, of course, lentils, also puffed, sev (tiny grilled noodles), tomatoes, chillies, fresh coriander. Crunchy and tender at the same time. Each spoonful ends of the juicy pomegranate and the exotic note of tamarind. Any future salad will be ever so bland close to this.

To add a festive note, try the Bollybellini (£6.50), which proves a perfect match, a tropical variant with litchee and raspberry. Refreshing and sparkling, this is the most glamorous lip gloss you can drink of. In the very last sip is a spoonful of fruit purée -  don’t leave a drop! You might also want to try the chaijito (which rum was infused with spices) and the Bombay Colada (warning -  highly addictive).

Sea food lover? No hesitation – the grilled masala prawns (£10.50) are for you. Gorgeous, I am still amazed by those. Rich, juicy, tender flesh, fragrant with coriander. Although served with lime, you tend to forget about it: nothing else is required. And so you will eat them slowly to enjoy them longer, with your eyes closed. It would not take much for you to order a second plate straight away. One of those dishes you will not share. No way. Get your own.

Another signature dish is their very, very famous black dahl (£4.70). Slow cooked with love, it has this unequalled unctuosity, nutty, almost caramel like notes. Rather than the usual naan, try the roomali roti,  between bread and pancake -much lighter. Although, trust me, you’ll soon be eating this dahl by the spoonful

Kulfis and golas of course are on the dessert menu, the latter with out-of-the-ordinary flavours such as passion fruit & ginger or chilli & pomegranate. The waiter advises me to go for the oh-so-surprising crumble (£5.20). And wow. Forget everything you tasted before -  this one is sweet pineapple in a spiced peppery sauce with a crunchy pastry and seeds topping. On the top, a scoop of cinnamon ice cream to add a smooth finish. Now, this is the best way to beat any winter blues. If you do not step out of there dancing in the rain, I’ll eat my hat.

You cannot leave without having a chai. Where else in London could you stop for one at any time of the day? Ther have added some twist to the house chai -  a chocolate one, a naughty chai (dark chocolate syrup, chocolate shavings, Bourbon and chai) and even, below, a one laced with Bailey’s for the perfect velvety touch. Ideal on any cold day, to defreeze with a smile.

But this is just a tiny selection from the menu. How could you resist the fennel-mango lassi, the calamars. the vada pau (a roll spice up with potatoes and chutney), the malai kufta ruby (dumplings with paneer, ginger, pomegranate and ginger), the lamb, ginger and garlic kebab that make everyone turn as they pass by? No, really, you will need more than one visit… Why not have a look at their Valentine’s day menu?

Dishoom
12 Upper St. Martin’s Lane
London WC2H 9FB

Teatime in wonderland was a guest of Dishoom.

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