More than a year ago, London developped a passion for burgers. What used to be a quick dish, barey though of, eaten on the go, became slow food icon, gourmet, top of the range. There were chases, where is the very best one? We rediscovered the choice of juicy meat, this so satisfying mix, the kind that makes your stomach rumble from 11.00… I still can’t believe there isn’t a guide book on this. I can even picture St Paul with a giant bun instead of the dome.
On Marylebone, you have to make a detour via Slabs for a touch of luxury. From outside, it looks pretty simple, but inside is a lovely industrial inspired decoration. With a twist. Grey bricks but with a touch of silver and textures. Funky lamps in a neat row contrasted with a galaxy or mirror ones.
Indulge. Try a Forbidden fruit cocktail, matching the ripe juicy of raspberries and passion fruit tanginess, tropical summer in a glass. If you favour classics, how about this twist on the Old Fashioned, flamed and infused with orange, lasting lovingly on the lips?
For starters, fall for the chicken wiglets, so tender, wrapped in a honeyish BBQ sauce, you know, the one you cannot help but link from your fingers? The salt and pepper squids are wonderful too, crunchy outside, superbly seasoned, a little wake-me-up chilly, refreshing hint of ginger. Try them in a lettuce leaf, beautiful.
And then comes the feast. Reading the menu, your eyes opened wide. Spanish burger with chorizo, manchego, Serrano ham and aioli… Veggie burger with Portabello mushrooms, courgette, aubergine, brie and cranberry jelly… Another version with Wagyu (this beef massaged and cocooned so that the meat is marbled with fat, super-tasty) left me dreamy: served with shiitake mushrooms, a creamy wasabi sauce and an Asians coleslaw. When we visited, there was a venison one, so rich, so complex, its intensity balanced with caramelised onions. With giant triple cooked chips, it felt… divine. But the cherry on the cake, or the sesame seeds on the bun should I say, is the lobster one, the signature. The picture below just does not do it justice. Brioche bread, herbs, lobster and moist crab flesh, such an elegance. The delight stays long on the tongue and ah, this is so wonderfully satisfying. Luxurious, but very worth it. Wow.
Conclude on a sweet note. Maybe a tiramisu cocktail, literally a liquid version of the cake. Biscuity, frothy, a cloud of cacao. Cheesecake fans have to try the NY style one made with sour cream and twice baked. Chilled, like a sweet cloud, gorgeous vanilla taste. Chocoholica will prefer the dark chocolate and hazelnut tart with its brownie texture, its salted caramel sauce and popcorn on the side. One bite is very adult like, the following very regressive. Go on. You know you want to…
19 New Cavendish Street
London W1G 9TZ