Tea Time in Wonderland

Archive for the ‘Aperitif time!’ Category

My friend Benoit is going back to Paris shortly. He hasn’t experienced an afternoon tea yet! It’s hard to find one at the last minute, a quality one usually needs to be booked 2 months in advance. We thought we’d take a chance and step in the Athenaum – a five star hotel, rewarded this year by the Tea Guild Award of Excellence. This sounds promising and the tearoom does not look overwhelmed with customers.

I’m not sure we have any table left…

We point at one behind the young woman. Two free seats. Confused, she asks us to sit down.

We ask for the afternoon tea menu. The waitress brings one  for two – so much easier to choose… but this only shows alcohol and cocktails. We call her back, she exchanges it for the correct one. For some reason, it is not possible to have one per person.

We select the Mistletoe afternoon tea – £34, usual price for such a standing.

Tea arrives, served in silver teapots, lovely China cups, refined flavours.

Here comes the Golden Fizz cocktail. The side of the flute is sticky as if it hadn’t been cleaned properly. Mmmmh.

A larger table is available, we are asked whether we would like to move. We’re delighted. However it proves to be close to the entrance with icy air coming in when the hall door is opened. A cup of tea gets cold within two minutes. We adapt.

The waitress brings a plate of sandwiches: roast Turkey and Seasonal Berry Chutney; Honey Roast Ham with Red Onion Marmalade; Free Range Egg and Cress; Scottish Smoked Salmon and Cucumber with Cream Cheese. I am asked to choose. I’m surprised – the whole set has always been included in the upmarket afternoon teas I have tested before. I ask one of each. I’m even more perplex when I notice a whole plate being offered to a nearby customer without asking him to select anything. These are nice enough, each finger sandwich having a different kind of bread.

15 mn pass. Ah, here is a tower of treats. First level: an elegant scoop of clotted cream. Second level: two servings of jam, a strawberry and a blueberry one. The menu stated “mixed berry and vanilla jam”. Mmmm? Which other berries? Which vanilla or is it incredibly discreet? How come the top of the jam is so solid it comes away with the spoon? How long has it been sitting in this bowl? Third level: three tiny scones -  cranberries and spices, well baked, tender and fragant, the highlight of the tea.

Another 15mn. Again, I am asked to choose from a selection of cakes. To my knowledge there is no “or” in the menu. And the portions are small – understandable and usual for a selection, not if you are to select only one. I request one of each. Ok, but nothing transcending. A slice of chocolate yule log. A tasty mince pie. A star shaped shortbread, each branch dipped in white chocolate, sprinkled with dried tasteless strawberries. A snowflake cupcake: that size actually is referred to as a fairycake. A dollop of icing, not enough to cover the cake, a little coconut. Not much taste to it. I know where to find better ones! I actually can cook better ones!

That’s when our waitress suddenly disappears. We chat, we finish our tea. We grap our coat – it’s getting chillier as the temperatures drop outside. Most customers have left. Some arrive and ask for dinner.

40mn wait. I am now pretty fed up, ask a waiter for the rest of the afternoon tea. He brings an extra teapot and a plate of pastries. An ok stollen cake, a cupcake and a mince pie (already got those), mini chocolate Santas in foil paper – supermarket treats? – a hard marshmallow dipped in chocolate.

The Aberfeldy Single Malt Whisky Fruit Cake and the candy canes are nowhere to be seen. I’m pregnant, tired, annoyed and really cold. I ask for the teacake and crumpet which were supposed to arrive between the stollen and the chocolate santas. The waiter tries to bluff his way: oh, we usually bring them last. Sure. Entirely credible. Nice try.

Here they come. Only half a toasted teacake and a crumpet. Both lukewarm. The butter will not even melt on them! The crumpet is still cold inside…

I just want to be out of here. We arrived at 16h30, it is now 18h45. I ask for the bill, refusing to pay for the service. No one will bother asking why. No sign of a manager. Not even an excuse or a compensation. This is a joke of a 5* service.

The quality of the food is nowhere close to luxury. Neither is the service. Since when are the customers cold in such a place? Left aside to wait and check what should be on the menu? On what is this Tea Guild of Excellence based, exactely? We definitely haven’t had the same experience.

This was Benoit’s first experience of an afternoon tea. And of a palace.  He’s not likely to try it again.  What a dispappointing time!

You want to impress a lover, a mother in law? Stay away from this address. Prefer Yauatcha. It will not be a 5* but at least the service is correct, the treats exquisite, the wow effect really close to luxury and the portions bigger: one of their scones is bigger and tastier than the 3 presented here. Oh, and it costs £10 less.

A definite lack of elegance, taste and care towards the customer.

The Athenaeum
116 Piccadilly
Mayfair
London W1J 7BJ

Fed up with the Xmas spirits, the enless chase of the perfect gift, the false beards on Santas? Would much prefer to press fast forward to your ski holidays?

Well, I have the perfect break for you – climb up to the Rooftop Alpine Lodge. Chalet atmosphere, very cosy, wooden decoration, fur on the stools, bowl of nuts with a nutcracker on the side, open fire, logs… have a look outside – the mini-terrasse is covered in snow, the trees are silvered and there’s even a mini helicopter.

You forget everything instantly. Take your shoes off, indulge with a pair of thick socks – plenty available for free when you come in.

Order a mulled wine – peppery, lots of orange notes, the best I have had in years. But be warned: you’ll feel so comfy, hypnotised by the dancing flames of the fire that there are high chances you will either spend the whole afternoon there if not fall asleep!

Mulled wine is at £4 – other cocktails (including some caramel vodka) are available. Or order some charcuterie, tartiflette, fondue to share (for £2, count £18/£20/£20).

The rooftop Alpine Lodge
2a Tabernacle Street
London EC2A 4LU


Booking: 07000 847876
Open till the end of February 2010

It’s so easy and pleasant to lose yourself within London. Turning here to have a look at this building or there to contemplate a sculpture…

That’s exactely how I stumbled upon the 7 stars, right behing the Royal Court of Justice.

A quaint old fashioned pub, so atmospheric, a little eccentric, law themed posters on the walls, a shelf of books, a log fire… and amazing curiosities windows on the street side.

This one dates back to 1602, one of the rare buildings to have escaped the Great Fire (go to the Monument to learn more!). Weekdays, you’ll meet lawyers aplenty there… and maybe Tom Paine, le local pub cat.

Dishes are simple but delicious. No menu, have a look at the specials board instead. I love to stop there for lunch. Choices vary daily. saudages and mash, oyseters, soup, a cold meat or cheese board… Nice selection of ales and wines too. Prefer the week-end for a quieter time.

Seven stars
53-54 Carey Street
London
W2C2A 2JB4

Love historical pubs? Try the Mitre!

This is the place to be to start your week-end. It doesn’t look like much, dark facade, an underground bar @ Covent Garden. Youwouldn’t have stopped, really, were it not for the happy hour, half price! sign. But it’s Friday night and you feel like celebrating in style.

What a surprise – quite a trendy bar, buzzing with Londoners in-the-know and even a DJ.

The cocktail list is mouthwatering. The usuals Dirty Martinis, Chocolate martinis et Espresso martinis are of course to be found. But what a feast to choose from! Hiro and Thyme (blueberries, fesh thyme, schochu, gin, crem de cassis, lemon juice) or the Spicy Melon (Absolut lemon vodka, honey melon, chilli, fresh lemon juice) are to die for. Or would you prefer something with champagne, whisky, sake (the Tokyo Mule with lemongrass is quite a success), vodka, tequila, rum? Ooooh, how to choose?

Watch the barmen – such a dance behing the counter, their hands flying around. It only takes a couple of minutes for your drink to be created in front of you and your camera can’t keep up with the rapidity of this agile ballet… Refreshing, interesting mix od flavours ( I am used to alcohol infused with basil but not thyme), several levels on the tongue…

This is a buzzy and noisy place – to be avoided if you were planning on a quiet and romantic talk… But @ £4 the cocktail for their happy hours? Such a great way to cheer the evening and the week-end ahead!

Dirty Martini
11/12 Russell Street
Covent Garden
London
WC2B 5HZ

Happy Hours: Monday to Thursday: 17.00-21.00 and Friday-Saturday: 12.00-21.00. Plus all night Sunday.

A slightly select address. More romantic, more of a celebration than having a pint @ the local pub.

You’re at the limit with the City, the bankers’ quarters, big names have their headquarters around here. You’ll see people in workins suits and ties.

Booking is mandatory, where you want to dine or just have a glass. Don’t be intimidated by the voice claiming they are fuuly booked. Insist on being put on the waiting list: they called me back whithin 12 hours to take my credit card number and guarantee my reservation (quite common in upmarket places: it forces you to be there on time or at least to have the courtesy to cancel which you might not do @ Pizza Express).

Stepping in the building is already an experience. The web site indicated smart dress- no worry, there’s no need to get your tux or cocktail dress  out. Elegant is more the word – lovely dress, great shirt and trousers, even nice jeans on a Friday night. We could get in without a tie. Avoid trainers though. We get a visitor badge at reception. Then there’s security, bags x-raying, metallic door. No risk taken here. VIP effect – especially if you wanted to impress a friend!

You’ll find a lift dedicated to Vertigo -no stop, it will take you there in 50 seconds. The staff is welcoming, the waiter will propose options, check on you regularly but will not force anything on you. Neither will he raise a brow if you only go for the one drink. Champagne is on the menu but also 5 cocktails, including a delicious litchee belini, a refreshing Kir Royal and a champagne, angustura and cognac that will make your eyes twinkle with happiness.

Wow exclamation also garanteed, even for blase people like me whoo have seen so many cities from towers already, dined in revolving restaurants, walked on glass roofs, even climbed on a 5* hotel roof in Paris to get a better view of the Louvre. Transparent tables follow the wal structure to give you a plunginh view down the city – litterally a carpet at your feet. the view’s great everywhere but do stop after coming in: you’ll see Tower Bridge and the London Eye. You’ll feel like a bird looking at stars below you.

Conversation? Superfluous. You’re hypnotised by the view. A cocktail is £12.50, but gosh, the magic is worth it…

A bit too smart for you to feel comfortable? head for those instead:
- Detroit, ideally placed close to Covent Garden. Galleries with splendid arches. Try the Twinkle: vodka, champagne, elderflower- £6.95
- Calloo Callay, in Shoreditch. Small prices for lunch and dinner, fun deco mixing 70ies with a sense of humour. If you’re coming with friends, order the ‘Mad Hatters Tiki Punchbowl’, served as tradition request in a punch bowl… but on a gramophone! (rum, creme de peche, rhubarb, ginger, lemon, angostura and grapefruit). Count £7-£8.50 for a cocktail.
- Le coq d’argent – terrasse with grass and a view on the City. Excellents cocktails, the best I have had so far. The barman delighted in creating a cocktail based on my mood – a green apple martini. You could have sworn he pressed the fruit in it to get each of the flavours out! I only payed £8.
- Want a very British side… A mar-tea-ni anyone? Served in a teapot, enough for 2. £7.50 at the Cavendish Hotel.

Vertigo 42
Tower 42
25 Old Broad St
London, EC2N 1HQ
Tube: Liverpool st

Since temperatures and leaves alike are falling dramatically, I’ll give up cocktail on the terasse (though it’s the last chance to enjoy the Dusk Bar).
And it sounds like the perfect week-end for it!

- First, put some colours back into our life and ead for Ruscha’s show @ the Hayward. Pop, surrealist, firework like.

- Not to be missed: Damien Hirst @ the Wallace Collection. He finally gave up chain produced circles and got back to his brushes and paintubes. Vibrant works.

- Feel nostalgic with the new 6oies show (Beatles to Bowie) @ the National Portrait Gallery.

- Learn how transport sculpted the suburbs identity at theTransport Museum. The exhibitions should be funny and family-friendly…

- Start Xmas shopping with the Craft fair @ the Somerset House.

- Or forget this commercial world @ the Free Art Fair @ Barbican (you may even win a work of art on Sunday!)

- Enjoy to a poetry marathon @ the Serpentine Gallery (especially as the summer pavillion will be demolished Sunday)

- If the weather really is bad, head for the BFI London film festival!

Fancy find a piece of Cambridgeshire whithin London? Come with me – it’s the Mitre pub you need.

You see the sign from a distance, lonly on the pavement, amost suspended in the trees.. Turn right in a narrow corridor – 25 m long! – to find it. You can picture it in a Harry Potter book, hidden away, full of mysteries and wizards.

Very near still stand a spendid palace where the bishops of Ely used to stay when coming to London for business. Stories of the time decribe gorgeous gardens, fountains,  orchards and even vines. They were so proud of it they built a wall to separate it from ugly London. It was even decided it would come under Cambridgeshire’s jurisdiction.

In 1546, the original Mitre is built as a drinking place for the servants working at Ely’s Place. In 1772, it is briefly detroyed only to be rebuilt as an exact copy.

In 1576, Elisabeth I’s favourite, Christopher Halton, succeeds to get possession of half the building. A cherry tree is decided for the limit separating the grounds. The Queen is said to have danced the Maypole around it. Truth or romance? Anyway, a part of it is still preciously preserved.

The pub is usually closed when I walk by… The palace has long been sold to the crown of course. Cambridgeshire has given the rights back to the borough of Camden of course. But this public house prefers to keep with the old rules and still closes at 10.00pm…

Ye Old Mitre
1, Ely Court
Ely Place
London, EC1N 6SJ
Tube: Chancery lane

My first impression of The Icecreamists had left me a little cold. Oh, the tastebuds were happy, but well the prices seemed a bit high for the average wallet. It had been their opening night, they had been overwhelmed and the customers’ follow-up had been too weak for me. As far as I was concerned, there were other cool addresses to play: Freggo, Scoop…

Very much present on Twitter and Facebook, the Icecream boutique does take marketing seriously. They contact me, give explanations, agree with some of my points and propose asavoury moment with their chef Mark Broadbent who will answer my questions. When you’re as sweet tooth and curious as I am, you don’t refuse such an offer!

My expectations? Mmmh. Try a larger palette of those icecreams. Understand why, according to them, they are so different from the trendy ones actually on the market. I don’t expect a revelation that oh, my god, those are so good!.

I was underestimating the passionate team. Mark guides me to the counter and makes me taste an incredible range: cinnamon, ginger, lemon, dulce… For some of those, I keep my position “delicious but I have tasted such a quality before”. But others are just unforgetable and i can only urge you not to settle for one flavour as I did. Pistacchios and hazelnuts are two incredible ones to try. I have had so many chemical ones before… This is the real think, as if you were actually crunching one. For sur, explains Mark – they do those by using the oil contain in the nut, which creates a very intense flavour. Another hit was the espresso -  a ristretto, sugary, the way i like it in Paris – you’d almost need a piece of chocolate on the side and a ray of sunshine to enjoy it as if you were in France. You must know by now I’m a chocoholic – the Venezuela flavour does pass the test highly, dark, intense but never bitter. A real surprise to me was the white chocolate, something I usually loathe, too much fat, too heavy. Not here: of course, they have added malt and bayleys and it just dances on your tongue…

Normally, the tastebuds would have been saturated by such a culinary adventure. How to go from one taste to another and still be able to differentiate them? The answer may reside in its texture, supple, a mouthfeel – not creamy which woud probably be too rich but just velvety. Not too sugary either, that would have killed the flavours. The focus really is on top ingredients: first quality chocolate, hazelnuts from Piedmont, cinamon from North Africa, pistacchios from Bronte… No compromise.

It’s not finished yet – now is the time for cocktails, my friends! I had blocked orginally at the price:£16.99 multiplied by two, what an expensive date… You won’t be friends with your banker for long.

Again, I stand corrected. Well, it still remains high prices, mind you. But a cocktail glass is enough for two, which makes it more approachable… The presentation has the necessary wow factor to make it pretty desirable. Elegant, classy, a touch of chocolate sauce, a spoon cleverly balanced on the side calling for your touch, a caramel flame… Oh, of course, you could have a banana split or a peach Melba someehere and share it too at a lesser price. But that would be comparing a kitkat bar and a piece of Vairhona. You s step above here, the satisfaction is way different. The first will be gulped down. The second will be eaten slowly, delicate spoonful after another and you will probably close your eyes. Another nice touch is to have a shot of alcohol on the side. Don’t pour it on the ice-cream, I find it a lot nicer separate: play on the textures, navigate, experience a balance: you’ll find that just a drop on your lips can bring sone flavours entirely to life, exploding differently.

Below:
Toffee Apple (with a lovely buttery note, very addictive, that reminds me of pommes flambess my mother used to do), caramel sauce, served with a plum alcohol
Viagra and absinthe, very smooth, very milky, served with a shot of absinth.

I also learn that those treats are prepared with 6% fat only but also with less air (35% against 150%!). That would explain why they melt slowlier? you can really take your time here without having a milkshake in a couple minutes!

Mark disappears with a smile, I am to be amazed once more. Arrives a modern presentation, I lick my lips. There is a tasting order to be respected, mind you, this is not a simple icecream, you see but a Sunday lunch icecream!

- a pea and mint sorbet. Not the British pea, mind you, barely cooked ot too boile. not, think, home hearted meal with a meltin floury touch, refreshing as a gazpacho, velvet on the tongue. I’d love to have glasses of that, with a straw. i can imagine it served with fish…

- Now – two scoops, a dark red and a pur white. You must balance them both in your spoon. Your eyes open wide. Ah! Roastbeef and Horseradish, how extraordinary! You need to try to fully understand but do trust me, those are more addictive than popcorn. separated, they lose a little of their magic, together they’re fireworks. Like yin and yang, underlines Mark while I have a Yorkshire pudding crisp.

- The last one is a desert, Mark’s favourite. Apple and blackberry crumble. The icecream is marbled, you can see entire parts of berries -  it’s like having the fruit exploding on your tastebuds. Clever crumble topping too -  crunchy, a hint of salt, even better: whole hazelnuts, roasted… How not to share his enthusiasm? (although I still lovingly long for the pistacchio)

It takes some genius and quite a vision to be an Icecreamist. I can think of so many possibilities: fish and chips? Tika? Why not? But don’t forget it took 20 tentatives to get that beef bouillon just right…

I’m delighted of course. More objectively: have I been bought? I certainly have been flavoured by the invitation. It was fab meeting the customers relationship manager, Hayley, the founder, Matt O’Connor who did take the time to say hello, sit, ask about my first experience and what i thought of my new one. The chef, Mark spent a whole hour with me. I had felt too banalized on the opening: I certainly was a VIP this time. Luxury!

I will not scream for all their flavours. But the ones I have higly praised really are worth stopping by. Pistacchio and hazelnuts are little celebration in themselves. Anf, you MUST come and try this Sunday lunch. Of course, it is unique and therefore trendy, but the flavours are just spot on. It could really replace a meal and you wold be as satisfied. Amazing. Will the future show those as packlunches? I certainly would indulge, I can’t wait for them to sell this pea and mint in tubs…

The Icecreamists
Selfridges
The Ultralounge
400 Oxford St
London, W1A1AB
Metro: Bond St

I had been flooded on Twitter and Facebook with notes about the Icecreamists. They’re opening! The flavours a soooo out of this world! You won’t believe your tastebuds! I read about absinth ice cream, cryogenic cocktails… I really wondered what the Obamama flavour would be like.

Licking my lips, I pocket the VIP invitation for the opening. I get there in advance but people are already getting in. Ah! But nobody’s checking the guest names. A few shoppers join in, try their luck, get in. So much for the VIP effect.

The decoration is entirely back with touches of neon pink. Gothic-Kitsch! An excellent group sings some vintage Prince which makes me think this is going to be heavenly. In a corner stands a customised ice-cream van: black and pink again, the Queen driving, a reference to Banksy. God save the Cream!

I’m given a menu, brought to a table, explained I can ask for samples if I cannot choose. I look at the prices: the Sex Pistols cocktail is at a mere £19…! Gosh, your appetite curbs down immediately. Normal ice-cream portions are at £3.99. You have to pay for the opening party? No indication.

The waitress takes my order. She can’t hear me and I try to scream over the music. My portion arrives in a design glossy black pot. Is lready melting and dripping on the side. Flavour like, it’s quite nice, sorbet like, very soft, very sugary. Not extra-ordinary. I step to the counter, I’m curious abour the bread one. Oh, and the rose too. Oh, and the sex pistols exists as an ice-cream, not just in a cocktail? I wait and wait, being ignored. An exhausted waitress finally telle me, a touch unnerved, that they don’t do samples anymore. She does not propose a second ice-cream either.

End of the game for me. Waitresses do not ask for any feedback. Anyway, they had already given my table to someone else. Noone seems to care about people leaving. We don’t even get a good-bye. That’s an opening party?!

Verdict?
The theory was good. Vice-creams, ice-cream boutique. Molecular ice-creams. It sounded really good. The deco has been worked on.
But prices? You come here to impress a lover, that’s quite an expensive stop for two cocktails…
Ignoring people on your first day is not the best idea either. On that day… they’re your best friends.
The ice creams are good. But… those are all big names hiding, most often, a simple flavour. Obamama? Milk chocolate with a hint of salt. I’d rather have a little name but a big flavour.

In a nutshell: a trendy place -  you come here to be seen, to know the cool places, to have tried the different ice cream, the ones seen in the magazines. I’m not sure what the Sex Pistols would say, but I’d go for the Rolling Stones “I can’t get no satisfaction”.

Want some cool ice-cream?
- For the same price, head for Freggo and try the dulce or even the Malbec and berries… The deco also plays a glamour note.
- Grab a nectarine one @ Gelato Mio (2.50) close to Embankment and sit in the sun in the Embankment gardens…
- Try the kiwi ice-cream at Scoop (£2) then head for Covent Garden…
- Finish with a sesameor chestnut ice-cream (£3.50) @ Feng Sushi after a stroll on South Bank

The Icecreamists
Selfridges
The Ultralounge
400 Oxford St
London, W1A1AB

Tube: Bond St

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Fashion always flirts with time – the shorter the availability, the trendier the object becomes.

Somerset house has teamed up with Bombay Sapphire Blue to lauch a pop-up bat. Tom Dixon was inspired by how the iconic bottles reflects light and wanted to recreate the atmoshere. Hence this large blue rectanlge on the terrace, divides in mini-salons. Very dynamic in shape, it can also change its shape very quickly if needed.

By daylight, I find it very… plastic looking and of little interest. At dusk though, it lights up, changind into a variety of blues and whites. Very soothing, especially as the terrace is at tree top level, hushing the sound of traffic.

Obviously, it’s now cocktail time! Try a Tomtini (£6.95), my favourite: gin, green apple, tea, ginger… The alcool taste is a lovely back note to it, leaving the other falvours to settle nicely instead. Very refreshing. Feeling romantic? Why not go for a Sapphire Rose (£7.25) -dry cherry liqueur, grapefruit juice.  Even the glasses design remind of the famous gin bottle.

Note to parent: the bar also serves mocktails (alcohol free cocktail), fruit juice, sodas. The children can run free on the terrace (beautifully lit at night) – plenty of space, no traffic, ideal. Do cross the Somerset house to have a look at the back yard – Lovely fountains flow from the ground, children can run through them happily. On a sunny week-ends, plenty of kids actually come in their bathing suit! My daughter came back delighted and soaked. Always have a towel and a change of clothes…

Dusk Bar
Somerset House
Strand
London WC2R 1LA

Tube: Temple
Until October 18, 2009