London: Tea Time in Wonderland

The Southbank fans always stop @ the Tate Modern.

They don’t even think about it, it has become instinctive, a natural detour to the walk, especially as it’s free. Maybe they’ll stop for a coffee, have a look at the new gadgets in the souvenir shop or enjoy the latest exhibition. Open till 22.00 on Saturdays, it often concludes my walk. I’m sometimes alone in the rooms – what a pleasant change!

Had you noticed, on the 3rd floor this mini-gallery? (Thanks, Benoit!)

It all started with the Family trail. A few crayons, cards, seats to keep kids busy. But then parents and visitors joined in, left their masterpiece. The best ones are presented on the wall and change on a regular basis.  Worth having a look!

Grab a pen and give it a try!

Tate Modern
Bankside
London SE1 9TG

And around…
- a slice of history…
- travel through time…
- how about a chocolate beer?
- Walk along the beach if the tide is low…

- Free Thursday morning? Do your gym @ Trafalgar Square before going to work!

- Wander through Camden market then go and (re) discover the brandly refurbished Jewish Museum…

- Hunt Harvey Nichols through the city: nusic, temporary tatoos, limited edition teddies and gliteery photo shoots…

- Pop in for a little Andy Warhol…

- Still going for the cultural card? Try sculptures here or enjoy the BP day @ The Tate: swap unwanted possessions, have your hair cut, or an alternative tour of the gallery, maybe a concert too!

- Feeling green? Add a little exotism and enjoy this Orchids show…

- Or will you prefer an edible chocolate garden?

- You hate sewing and craft? Think again. Quilts and patchwork often told the story of a group of friends, of a village, of a social status at the times. Give it a try @ the V&A!

You’ll find me fascinated by Judi Dench in a midsummer’s night dream and grabbing a bite @ this alternative picnic….

If you are lucky enough to take a London stroll during the week, do head towards Fleet street. Walk up -  you’ll find the Courts of Justice but alos Lincoln’s inns (where judges and barristers often lived), Old Bayley’s (the criminal court)…

On your left are the Temple inns – mostly closed and deserted at the week-end. During the week, it is a pleasant walk through the lanes, arches… Stop and have a look at the long lists of advocates, barristers, judges working in each building. Sit in the lovely yards, some with poetic names suc as Fig Tree Court…

At the time – we’re talking 12th century, the place were not only monastic but also military and belonged to the Knight Templars. The structure was very closed and strict – no going to the City without authorisation! The Templar master was powerful and sat in parliament. Kings and Popes representants would often stay here. It even served as a bank.

You’ll quickly find the Temple church, one of the last three round churches in England.

It has in fact a rectangular part and a lovely circular one, a tower in fact, very castle like, crenels included.

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This is where the Templar Knight would hold their secret initiation rites.

It is even mentioned in the Da Vinci Code as a pagan symbol -  the round shape would be dedicated to the sun… Dan Brown even compares it to a resurrection of Stonehenge in Central London (no less, hey?). The truth really is less far-sctretched: it only copies the shape of the Jerusalem  Church of the Holy Sepulcher the Knights were garding during their crusades.

With its marble columns, its arches, its wooden notes, its wooden altar designed by Christopher Wren (difficult to escape that name in London), it offers a peaceful atmosphere, far from the buzz of the city.

Another strange detail – the circle room has a serie of gargoyles sculpted by the masons at the time. Strange – those usually are outside and these days eroded by the weather. You can only smile at the naive faces and kids tend to find them quite funny too.

And if the atmosphere of the Inns of court inspires you… follow my friend Bibsa‘s advice and get the Shardlake books – a lawyer under Henry VIII, conspiracies, religion and polititcs of the time mixed with a thrilling detective story, you’ll be hooked in no time…

Temple Church
Temple
London EC4Y 7BB

And a few steps away…
- the slendid Lloyds Bank entrance
- an extra-ordinary pub

What an amazing art installation in the Saatchi basement.

I had read the presentation, knew what to expect -  but still your mind tricks you. You step closer and you brain is so confused for a second. How to limit the ceiling, ground, walls? How deep is the place? You’ll find yourself trying to analyse sunshine rays…

Only in a second time will you get back to reality -  a smell tickling your nose.

Yep, this room is filled with a sump oil sea. Not a line on the surface, not a movement – you even have a crazy thought that it looks like one could walk on it. The camera will be the best traitor here.

It will keep you mesmerized for a good ten minutes. Another kind of art sulpture!

Richard Wilson 20:50 installation
Saatchi Gallery
Chelsea
London, SW3 4SQ
Metro: Sloane square

Free! Until May 07, 2010

There’s spring in the air, get your snickers ready!

- Go and enjoy the East London Festival – so rich in music festivities, world culture, architecture, guided tours…

- Play with words @ the London Word Festival

- Add a splash of colour with this Hindu festival

- take the kids to a different week-end @ Barbican – poetry, Indian lanterns, bollywood dances…

- Since you’re @ Barbican, try a little alternative music. Yep, those are real birds. And it’s free!

- Fancy a little Alice in your week-end? Here a Mad Hatter Ball, here a little bit more about Lewis Caroll’s talents, and there a colourful tea-time…

- Oh, don’t forget, it’s National Pie Week! A few tips here and there…

I’m planning an easy week-end – cinema! Spoilt with both the new Tim Burton and Banksy’s first film, Exit through the gift shop. Which by the way plays @ Barbican, in case you feel like a whole day there. Oh, and maybe I’ll go and try those Asian sweets too…

Sherlock Holmes only exists in Conan Doyle’s extraordinary world.

Such a bad idea – such a roar from the public claiming their hero back! The more he resisted, the more letters came through the door. He had not choice but bring the detective back to life, a total of 56 stories.

This success remains unchanged today – just look at the number of visitors at his supposed address where a small museum has been created! Nothing historical here but a nice atmospheric stop. Lovely time travel and ideal with kids.

Gosh, the houses were small in that street. But it’s enough and makes it even cuter somehow. The first floor probably is the best – you really can picture the two friends chatting the night away. You almost expect to see Sherlock’s pipe smoking in a corner. Watson usually is here, welcoming you and proposing a picture in the detective’s chair. Complete with the hat, of course. Alternatively, pose with the bobby outside who keeps a cape and a few hats at hand for souvenir photos too….

Oh, and do get a few quaint souvenirs from the shop. You’ll find everything from Teddy bears to pipes and matches in there.

Sherlock Holmes Museum
221b Baker St
London
NW1 6XE

£6/adult, £4/enfant

Equipped with fun accessories? Why not go and pose in profile in the tube station?

A cute and funny exhibition @ Selfridge’s – this one plays on tiny details and big artistic effects. a maze of discoveries, a splash of colour, a dash of crazyness and smiles…

Take your time. Each work is in two stages. First a general visual effect. A smile. You look closer and discover what it really is made of. Like these letters made of jelly, this wall out of paper flowers, this winged nest, in fact a hat…

An ideal pause between two intensive shopping sprees. Your lover or/and your kids will be very grateful!

Now. Shopping done. Cultural card played. Surely you deserve a macaron from Pierre Herme?

The Museum of small things
Selfridge’s
400 Oxford Street
London W1A 1A
Jusqu’au 07 mars 2010
Until March 07, 2010

Valentine’s week-end!

- How about a very poetic walk?

- To be followed by an excellent hot chocolate…

- Maybe a classical music concerts, candlelit?

- Alternatively, you can try the cinema screening on the National Theatre roof -  bring your blankets, champagne and picnic!

It’s also the Chinese New year – a roaring Tiger year! The official celebrations ave been postponed to next week – love marketing obliging – but you still can…

- Go to the National Portrait Gallery on Saturday. At noon, 14h00 and 16h00 there will be traditional dances, martial art and Chinese legends storytelling…

- or rush to the Museum of London Dockland Museum to taste some lovely tea, see a few screenings and enjoy the paper cutting workshops…

What about kids?

- Take them to the Wetland center to pet farm animals…

- or to the Horniman Museum for the Myths and Monster exhibition!

A few more options:

- Star Trek fans, be on the Millenium Bridge Saturday at 13.00 – preferably with your costume on!

- Pack some bargain at the market…

- Go and marvel at Judi Dench in a Midsummer’s night dream…

- Enjoy winter sports @ Trafalgar -  the Vancouver opening ceremony will be projected on a giant screen, vitual video games proposed and there will even be a giant ice sculpture of the olympic rings…

- Rediscover the fab Imperial Museum of War and enjoy their Ministry of food exhibition – extraordinary war posters like the famous Dig for Victory

- Stop at Lulu Guinness’ pop up shop in Carnaby street and be a fashion victim

Pssst! Don’t forget Shrove Tuesday next week -  head for the famous Spitafield pancake race!

Once upon time, London was a much smaller place. Each borough increased in size until meeting the city. Can you imagine Lambeth as a muddy countryside?

The simple life became a town one. In 1800 -  a million people were living in the capital. In 1850 – 2.3 millions, what a jump!

Faced with this ever increasing populations, the graveyards around little churches just cannot cope. Bodies are buried a metre from the ground, with basic decorum: ideal for body snatchers.

That explains why cemeteries often look, well, crowded… How do you get from one grave without stepping on another one?

In 1832, the government finally decides to move and settles for a ring of cemeteries around London, also known as the Magnificent Seven: Kensal Green, West Norwood, Highgate (a real jewel, I hear), Nunhead, Brompton, Abney Park, Tower Hamlets will open between 1837 and 1841.

Some see is as a real opportunity. A protected, kept, green place: middle class decide to bury their beloved in style and show the social status of their family through elaborate graves. Marble, sculptures…

These days, it is not so much used as a cemetery than a lovely place for a walk. Large alleys sheletered by trees. In spring, bluebells and daffodils.In fact, you’ll be suprised to meet quite a few football fans: the Chelsea stadium is right behind. Do visit the place on amatch day. The atmosphere is surreal! One minute, you’re enjoying the quietness, listeming to a robin chirp happily. The next, a goal has been marked and you hear the loud clamour of the stadium as if you were in it. quite a new dimension!

Another amazing detail -  Beatrix Potter used to live nearby and loved strolling around. She actually used names on the graves for her book characters: you’ll find here a Mr Nutkins, a Mr McGregor, a Jeremiah Fisher, and even… a Peter Rabbett. It is even said that the enclose wall inspired her for the one in McGregor’s garden.

Of course, you’ll find plenty of crosses around, some celtic, other greeks. Angels too…

And many symbols the Victorians loved.

A few:
A rosebud wuld be for a child – half opened for a teenager – fully bloomed, someone in their twenties. Several and you can calculate their age.
Urns usually meant an ossuary, garlands redemption.
Dog symbolised loyalty.
A wreath, eternal memory. Laurel was kept for the elitehaving received a distinction in arts, litterature…

Birds symbolised the winged spirit, flying to heaven. A dove with an olive branch would mean hope.

See those three intricate letters, almost a symbol: IHS? Those were for Jesis Our Saviour in Greek. So much smarter to add little touches of your faith in mysterious ways…
My favourite are those hands. Look closely @ the first picture. A handshake is easy -  a goodbye. But the sleeves are different, you see? A frilly one would be a woman’s, buttons a man’s – obviously a couple. The person who died first clasps the living’s hand, which remained open. Here, the gentlemane died first. A finger gesturing downward mean a sudden death.

There also are plenty of marine symbols. My first thought was a seaman… But look at the last one – poor little Rose, 18 months… An anchor with a cut chained meant the interrupted life too.

Many graves look completely abandonned. There has been talks of cleaning them. Quite a polemic as they shelter a fascinating collection of insects and birds. Migrating ones love to stop here too. Even families of foxes live in the catacombs!

Oh, and you rarely will be on your own. The squirrels are used to visitors and will quickly make their way to you (or any food you might have)….

Brompton Cemetery

The friends of Brompton Cemetery propose a guided tour every second and fourth Sunday of the month – only £4!
Finborough Road
London, SW10

Love fair!

- Gasp in amazement at the Wildlife photographs @ the Natural History Museum. This takes place every year and is a real marvel.

- Learn about forgery in art @ the V&A…

- Get to know the designer stars of the future…

- Into kinetic and robotic? The Kinetica art fair is for you….

- Don’t forget Valentine’s day is coming up! Find a vintage treasure @ this jumble and pearl sale or at this glassblown objects sale… Even more finds at this love fair!

- Or arrange to tour London in a mini-Cooper!

- Fancy a walk and some fresh air? Why not discover the Jewish quarters? Or an Indian food walk?

- Enjoy a day @ Kew Gardens -  as lovely in winter as in summer – and get some exotism in the conservatory presenting collections of colourful orchids and tropical flowers…

- Have teenagers dreaming of making movies? Take them to the BFI Future Film Festival!

- Have a look at the possible sculptures for the Spittafield Market and vote for your favourite…

- Try a restaurant with a difference – dinner and circus show!

You’ll find me wandering through the Russian festival, having a lovely Chelsea Chai @ Yumchaa and enjoying French electro music with Anne B’s concert (thanks to Le Petit Journal). How about you?

Oh, and if you have the time, go and check out this giant ice cube in front of the Tate next week. 3 days only!