London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Macarons, until very recently, remained a very French pleasure. But those little round treats are advancing on the London scene: you will see them here and there, discreet and sweet confetris of happiness.

I have fallen for them and love to take a selections when going on a stroll. A simple treat that only requests a sunny bench then the flavour to match the atmosphere…

My last gourmet discovery is in Covent Garden, next door to Hope & Greenwood. Bougie is a lovely tea room / pâtisserie whose shop window will make you melt… Macarons, lemon or white chocolate tartlets, pastries… I wonder how many passers by dribbled when gazing at it?

To have a nice cup of tea and a slice of cake with your friends in the neighborhood, options were pretty limited. The cafés in the piazza are 1/overwhelmed in tourists in summer 2/pretty cold during wintery days. Le Pain Quotidien, though nice, is a bit too chain like for me. The Primrose Bakery, an ideal haunt, is tiny and only offers 3 tables, usually full. How nice to now have a proper option to go and have a chat!

So, why here rather than Ladurée or Pierre Hermé for a macaron? Well, each have their specificity.

At Ladurée’s, I am easily distracted by the gorgeous boxes. I select it carefully, matching the biscuits colour with those of the pacjaging, mentionning it is a gift, just of the pleasure of having it enribonned. The macarons are just one part of the ritual…

At Pierre Hermé’s, I gasp at the audacious alliances. Apricot-pistachio, strawberry-wasabi… So light and tasty! However, they do not have a lounge where I could cocoon on a rainy afternoon.
At Bougie’s… I adore the caramel with salted butter ones which remind me of a childhood treat… Smooth, well cooked ganache that takes you over. I dream away with the orange blossom, perfect exotic touch, which aroma is exactely like the flower in bloom. The rose one evoque a wonderful comfit and are much, much better than Ladurée’s. And the pistachio, ah! A generous ganache, the real thing, as if you were eating the nut itself. Love at first bite.

The chef reinterpreted the French Cake Opera in a macaron version (chocolate-coffee) even offering an oriental one (coffee-orange blossom). Another of his creations sounds like a poem, the Covent Garden: chocolate-Earl Grey-cherry. Sounds divine, doesn’t it?

The secret of it all? First class products, of course. And a real passion. Rather than prepare an industrial batch that would be sold along the whole week. Jean Herve Nedelec prefers to bake them in smaller lots and offer them fresh on a daily basis. He will tell you about the alchemy of flavours, the poetry of cooking, how to recreate a childhood moment through a flavour… I can imagine him in his kitchen, in the basement, creating the dream macaron of the day. Irs creation, he explains, is very sensitive to the changes in the atmospheric pressure: quite a challenge in England, then! The recipe must be rebalanced every day and of course, there s no book to help you out: only the magic  and experience of the Maitre Macaron can fix it.

A precious address when you are around, not only for its sweet touch but for the warm welcome. I even came bakc with two young kids -  the ultimate test -  and the smile did not falter for a second. Everyone in the team took great care of us, explaining in detail the list of treats in the menu, checking on us regulary. All in a very natural, friendly way (and I even left with a tip on a coffee festival coming up!)

Bougie
3 Russel St
Covent Garden
London WC2B 5JD

Macaron: £1.50 to eat in / £1.35 to take away
Pssst: they even propose French charcuterie and cheese plates, ideal for lunch time!

Gosh, so many things coming up you might need to add a few pages to your agenda for the week-end!

- Join me in my week-end celebration: isn’t an afternoon tea with a view ideal?

- Fascinating scientific and robotic creations…

- Kew Gardens turns tropical!

- Brunch in Brixton village…

- The kids will love to learn some Chinese calligraphy… or lanterns…

- Pssst: it’s Nutella world day on Saturday -  get a lovely pancake here!

- Have tea with a legend…

- Where did you put that red nose?

- Frankenstein turns to the theatre stage…

- Meet the new generation of artists… Wait, are those for sale?

- Get hungry @ the V&A Childhood Museum…

- A romantic snowdrop walk…

- Love alternative restaurants? This one can be all yours…

- Come and see dragons dance for the Chinese New Year on Trafalgar! Selfridge’s celebrates it with music…

- Keep it real @ the Whitechapel Gallery…

- Get those little fingers busy…

To choose a perfume for a woman is like deciding how to tell her story. It could be the story of her life, or just the story of her day. We both faithful and unfaithful to our favourite perfume: we need one as a pillar to the routine days, another for the laughs and the glitter -  a wardrobe of perfumes as they say at Miller Harris’. They define yet complete us – the mere complexity of the notes is why they understand us best.

Tired of the usual big names which will also be favourites of your friends and relatives, I was looking for a fragrance with less marketing, less shiny but more poetic.

I pushed the door of Miller Harris to have a simple tea in their tiny yet exquisite tea room. The Mayfair boutique serves their own creations (£4) together with cute raseberry cakes or baby cupcakes from the Primrose Bakery (£1.5). A sweet pause that anyone can afford. I hesitated a second to take the Thé Violette -  very often, the floral note is non-existant or has been created chemically -  remains the beauty of the name. However this one is first shy as the flower is, then blooms up on blackberry and Darjeeling. It enrapts you as soon as you pour it, intriguing, and inviting.

Soothed, you can only put aside notebooks and lists of things to do, people to cal, times to remember. The team will check regularly whether you need more water. Just listen to them explaining the perfumes -  all have french names, sound like a fairy tale. They will tell you about the herbs, the spices, the citrus fruits chosen, or how this one has a hinch of salt in memory of Guérande, where flowers growing close to the fields where the flakes are collected, get  perfumed with the sea salt too. Curious, you get closer, caress the glass bottles, trying one or the other, getting drunk on the unusal note of thyme, geranium, tarragon, basil. It feels like walking in a garden after the rain, or pressing aromatic leaves between your fingers, or walking in the countryside in the morning sun. The fragrances are natural, authentic, real. They not only are in accordance with your mood but will create an atmosphere around you and transport you. They truly make you feel unique.

Even Jane Birkins fell for those. She worked with the Yorkshire artist two whole years to create a perfume that would sum her up: as light a bird feather, as soft as abutterfly’s touch, made of laughs and souvenirs. L’air de rien. With a touch of oak moss…

We fell in love with the whole range, more particularly the Piment des baies -  pepper, angelica, vanilla, orange, red thyme -  a poem made of fragrances… Adopted -  both the concept and the perfume!

Miller Harris
Boutique & tea room
Bruton Street
Mayfair
London W1J 6QD

Julie of London Incognito knows London as well as I do. She has the most fantastic job, tayloring dreams days in London for visitors. Just give her a few kew words of what you like and she’ll advice the most wonderful stroll.

Some time ago, she had mentionned Vintage Emporium as the loveliest place in Shoreditch to enjoy a cup of tea. A threatening sky pushed me inside and what a change of scenery! On one side of the door, the grayness of the streets. On the other, a cosy lounge, dimmed lights, warm atmosphere, country like music, inviting armchairs…

The rain outside persisting, why not enjoy the moment fully: chai (with a lovely touch of honey)? Cherry pie? Banana or carrot cake?

Have a look on the shelves for the most amazing games… Believe me, you will forget the time completely.

Don’t leave before discovering the boutique downstairs – exquisite vintage finds, from the Victorian era to the 1960ioes. How delicate the lace is, how adorable the hats, how glamorous the negligés, how irresistible the boots, how formidable the top hats… Gorget resistting – you’d better try and find an occasion to wear them instead, ideal in such a town as London!

Vintage Emporium
14 Bacon street off Brick Lane
London E1 6LF

Love it? Try Drink, shop and do!

And only a 5 minutes walk from the Eurostar!

Happy City had warmly recommanded it and her advice is always good as gold. Frozen by the winter air, hands threatening to turn blue, the idea of of defrosting around a cup of tea sounds irresistible.

The entrance opens on a lovely shop mixing designers creations and objects from the past. A puzzle of the Queen, elegant trios filled with wrapped tea, funny brooches… All those objects you probably would disregard as kitsch in  a charity shop but which, set in a more modern decoration just turn absolutely adorable. You havebarely walked in  and already you are in love with the place.

A few steps higher is a wide lounge – natural light from the glass roof (the building used to be a bathhouse in Victorian times), white walls, upcycled chairs from the 50ies-60ies, painted in bright colours (and on sale, yeheeee!). On the walls, more fun finds, as well as craft creations such as knitted messages… Simple but inventive. Cosy describes it best. Makes you wish to be a cat, settle on a chair and purr in happiness for the rest of the afternoon. everything invites you -  there are blankets and games in a corner. Look around: people are quick to Facebook/Tweet what a fab address this is but minutes after that, iphones are forgotten. Dominoes and Scrabbles are out.

A tea room, sayeth you? Not only, much better! Of course, treats and sweets are on the menu. But cocktails are too! Some have a childhood nostalgy note – one is served with a candy cane, another is sherbet based… order straight from the counter: soups, quiches, mountains of cakes. Yummy time ahead, my friends! My bowk of moroccan stew was served with two thick slices of bread. The cheesecake was light, cloud like, with just a sprinkle of sugar on top. Cups and spoons are of course deliciously vintage – I looked deses[erately for a price but those were not to be sold, damn!

Shop, tick. Drink, tick. Do? Well, you will have to come (back) evening time! You will knot, fold dinosaur-origamis or paper planes, create jewellery with sweets… very regressive, and very much fun too. Workshops are free or almost. Have a look on the program!

A find to treasure. Best place to spend a rainy day. Or to wait for your train – much more cheerful (and better warmed too!) than the chains @ St Pancras, which you can find elsewhere in London.Ideal (vital?)  if weather conditions delay or cancel your trip too!

Drink, shop & do
9 Caledonian Rd
London N1 9DX
Closed on Mondays but open till 21.00 Tuesdays to Saturdays and until 20.00 on Sundays

Pssst:
- Love vintage parties? Try the Vintage patisserie…
- Do you collect cute cups and trios? Go to Vintage Heaven!

Londoners love the address in Borough Market  – shelves loaded with biscuits of all sorts, counter heavy with cakes… One of the preferred treats are the Magic Cakes, cubes of tangy lemon sponge topped with a flashy icing and a drawing or a message. A cute gift – kids and adults love it alike. One mouthful of pleasure.

I much prefer the Waterloo one – just behind Gabriel’s wharf. The shop is away for the Southbank buzz and ever so peaceful. This is where it all started for them – with this boutique, wooden front, two big windows with a view on yummy deserts, a soft light inviting to enter. Decoration is vert simple, there is a big table in the center for visitors to sit, order a coffee, a croissant, a slica of almond or spiced apple tart, a carrot cake… The team is particularly friendly and welcoming, and it is easy to get distracted by the sugary perfumes around and just daydream.

Great news -  to celebrate their 17th birthday, they will be proposing a selection of cakes at their 1990ies price and this until January 31. Forget the calories: have a sweet life instead!

Konditor & Cook
22 Cornwall Road
London SE1 8TW
Careful, they’re closed on Sundays.

What’s around?
- Leake st tunnel
- The Waterloo elephant
- Topolski’s century

I recently went to Chocolat Unwrapped, the chocolat festival of the year. Each stall was more than happy to let you taste their creations (Oh, the joy of FREE Charbonnel truffles!) but the innovation side left me hungry for more.

I stepped out a little disappointed and was welcomed with a sudden rush of icy rain. If course, my umbrella had stayed home that day.

Thankfully, the Borough Market was just a sprint away. Hop, splash, hop, this place looks like a nice shelter. Little did I know I had stepped in chocolate heaven!

Rabot Estate does not ring a bell? If you are a chocaholic, you do know the name – this is Hotel Chocolat cacao plantation in St Lucia. The brand has chosen to widen their range with this café/shop to touch the heart (or the stomack) of Londoners.

Rustic notes for the decoration, on one side the Hotel Chocolat products, on the other the café, a few tables in between. We are far from the glossy side of the usual shops – the idea is to remind us of the natural side, a return to sources. Have a glimpse at the menu and your mouth already waters: everything is cacao-based! Chilli chocolate chicken with rocket… Salmon with chocolate creme fraiche… Duck confit salad with chocolate dressing and orange marmelade… Chicken salad with cheddar and white chocolate dressing… Before making a face, forget profiteroles and their oversugared sauce. Focus on real cacao and its fruity, almost bittter aroma. Focus on taste!

I chose the goats cheese -  honey- bitter cacao. They ran out of cheese but went to a local stall in the market to get some more -  fresh products guaranteed. Ah, my friends, if you just knew how gorgeous that was, the different textures, the tastes mixing subtly, what an alliance! If you are more of a purist, try their crumpet with chocolate spread and hazelnuts or their banana, salted caramel and cacao in  toasted brioche. They also do a real macchiato.

Rabit Estate also has a spice range that can only tease your culinary skills…

Still raining? Great news! Now, what haven’t I tried yet…?

Rabot Estate
2 Stoney Street
Borough Market
London
SE1 9AA

Count £3.75-4 for a toastie, £4.75 for a salad. The place is well known, do prefer a take-away!
Chocaholic? Have you tried Rococo‘s gorgeous treats yet?

Ready to trick or treat? Here are a few ideas to paint the town red…

- Have a pint of cider for a start…

- Hunt shadows @ the V&A late evening…

- Get scared @ the Lido….

- The best Wildlife pics are at the Natural History Museum…

- Walk with the dead..

- The Royal Albert Halls has a date with aliens…

- A free tour of London? Yes, you read it right! Click this way for an Halloween version…

- Hope you will have a good stomach for those terryfying Halloween cakes… LilyVanilli, who is part of the adventure, will also present her cupcakes @ Selfridge’s.

- Take a look at this operating theatre…

- Free screening of A nightmare before Christmas @ Bermondsey square…

- Take the kids to see a movie -  it’s their festival!

- Don’t forget to get a pumpkin!

- Yes, you can ski @ Battersea…

- Spitafields offers a Nepalese fair -  nice way of feeling on holiday elsewhere!

- Bubble your life away with a personnalised bubble-gum…

- Wicked witches sing their songs @ St Pancras…

- Play the vintage card @ Chelsea…

- Fancy dancing with a yeti or a zombie?

- Free Burritos, anyone?

- And you can get some freshly squeezed apple juice here…

- Celebrate Diwali on Trafalgar…

Your turn: what is your tip for the week-end?

What a strange week, which celebrates chocolate, cocktails and… wool! So, what’s on this week-end?

- Play the arty card. I have tried quite a few opening this week! The Shadow Catchers @ the V&A on photograms -  some really great works there. Barbican presents Japanese fashion (and don’t forget their late evening!). You’ll find more fashion @ the Somerset House… Do your gym @ the Hayward with Move! Balance, rings, hula-hoop… Very interactive and playful. If you’re into something more classic, try Canaletto -  great paintings of the Venice scene.

- On the street art line, try and get one of the last spaces for Hell’s Half Acre. Right in the Waterloo tunnels and extraordinarily good. The best show I have seen for a while! You will also find Eine and Polly Morgan @ the Moniker Art Fair that opens tomorrow…

- Get ready for Halloween with this themed afternoon tea… (or get yourself this book on monstruously cute cupcakes!)

- Have a free gin and tonic in a Victorian carriage of curiosities. And on the 16th, there is a croquet competition for barmen!

- Alternatively, say cheers in the pop-up Courvoisier…

- Or do you prefer wine? You can also try the Real Food Market…

- Taste some (free) chocolate @ Harrods! Or even better, have a chocolate orgy @ Chocolate Unwrapped…

- Be zen in the British Museum…

- Hop, go and see art in a park for once with the Frieze Art Fair…

- Rediscover St Paul…

- Have a pint in a fab pub…

- Lost your jacket? It may be here….

- Take the kids to cut and pastes paper templates…

- Contribute to this strange harvest @ the Wellcome Collection…

- Sci-fi fans, head that way!

- Go, on, have a very French dinner… you know it is soooo worth it…

- And last, order yourself the cutest cupcake in a jar. Just out of curiousity…

The secret of a lovely afternoon tea is not only in the quality if its scones. It has to provide an atmosphere, take you away from your routine.  You need to feel a touch of luxury, to feel transported to another time and space, to be charmed away… The moment is to be suspended in time somehow, nothing else should matter but the very moment. Though not as sacred a tradition as a japanese tea ceremony, each object does have an important place and role: the trio (cup, saucer, pastry plate), the elegant cake stand, the teapot. Whether you go for splendind china or shiny silver, this is cause for celebration, for beauty in each detail. Whether you are two or 10, it just calls for chats and confidences…

This afternoon, head to the Fashion Fete in Covent Garden. Vintage Patisserie has a little party for you there: real lawn, white laced garden tables and chairs, teapots turned into colourful vases,  an extraodinary collection of vintage china, at the same time mismatched and dancing along wonderfully… You will meet Angela Doree, in 1920ies fashion, gorgeous red hair elegantly curled, smily divinely. She is so passionate it only takes you seconds to fall in love with her world. On the side is a suitcase with hats and boas to add a final touch – I haven’t seen a guest not going for those, giggling along!

For a mere £5, you can enjoy a cup of Tea Palace brew (the Lavender Earl Grey is a gem -  took me right back to those memories) and a cupcake from Ella’s with their lovely sparkles signature. What a bargain!

Don’t have the time today? Not to worry -  you can book a proper afternoon tea on their website. Vintage Patisserie proposes a few secret locations in London and for £35, you will get more atmosphere than a 5 * hotel could provide and more of a cocooning experience… 1920ies feel, jazz music, beautiful food, gorgeous table, plenty of dress up accessories to try on and even a gorgeous touch! How could any girl resist this? You can even upgrade to workshops, tasting experiences, personnalised cupcakes and chocolates… Have a look at this article to fall even more for it….

The Vintage Patisserie
Until 18.00 @ Covent Garden’s fashion fete, this Sunday Sept 19, 2010
Or book the experience on their website