London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Spending a night in London is always a treat. But staying at the Cavendish in Jermyn street -  the gentlemen’s street – right behind Fortnum and Mason is, mmmh, royal. What a luxury to just cross the street to fill up on the most fantastic teas, sweets, elegant biscuit boxes and the most amazing collection of marmalades you have ever seen. You could then have a macaron at Laduree in the Burlington Arcade and its gorgeous boutiques. And you still would be 2 minutes from the hotel. Priceless. You are at the heart of the capital. Piccadilly and Regent street are 5mn away, Hyde Park 15mn walk. Less time in traffic, more time for you to enjoy the city.

The hotel offers many lounges to have a chat, an afternoon tea, a cocktail or just relax. There also is an amazing art collection, including some pieces of Diego Riviera’s paintings, a piano, rich flower arrangements.

And, in the cocoon atmosphere of the room, you will suddenly feel like kicking off your heels, make yourself a coffee form the Nespresso machine, pile the mountain of cushions high and leaf through the magazines on the side. Heaven. Or maybe run a bath, try the selection of fragrant Taylor of Bond Street products and wrap yourself in the fluffy towels warm from the electric holder. All this in lovely toffee colours, wooden notes, pure lines and large windows pouring natural light in.

Get up and you will realise there is no need for this huge plasma screen. From the fourth floor, London seems all yours -  you can see so much of it! BT Tower, the City, the London Eye, Westminster… An extraordinary postcard. Even on a greyish day, the contrast of the clouds with the bronze roofs is just fascinating. A very privileged view indeed.

Just imagine breakfast in your room, still in your robe, steaming cup of tea in hand. Eggs with an hollandaise sauce or English breakfast, fresh fruit juice, croissants, a card with the quote of the day, the morning papers. What a dream, right?

Verdict: Fabulous. Very friendly and helpful staff, elegant rooms, extra-comfortable bed and the best location you can dream of. One of those hotels you can go to with your eyes closed, knowing everything will be perfect… Take the time to try their restaurant, the Petrichor, who prepare British seasonal product deliciously.

The Cavendish London
81 Jermyn Street
London SW1 6JF

Pssst!

Love London? Fancy discovering it in the most amazing way, stars in your eyes?

Then book a room at the 4 star Park Plaza County Hall hotel. Just a few minutes from Waterloo, its situation is just ideal as you can be in no time along the Thames, at Westminster, Trafalgar… When staying only a week-end, you do not want to waste time in public transport, there is so much to see!

For a wow effect and make the love of your life gasp in amazement, choose the penthouses on the last floor. Just a few steps into the room are enough to enjoy the sumptuous view:

The corridor then opens on a natural light bathed lounge, comfy sofas, a second plasma screen -  the luxury of space. Imagine sitting there with a glass of wine in your hands, looking over London.

Even better a kitchenette is on the side. You will find the usual mini-bar and kettle are there, of course, as well as a microwave and a good selection of plates, glasses, cutlery. Pretty handy if you love strolling through local markets such as the Borough one and end up with all kind of treats.

Coffee lovers will be delighted to find a Nespresso too -  it makes a hell of a difference whenever you need a caffeine kick or are looking for high quality aromas.

Very few guests can resist more than a few minutes before stepping on their private balcony:

You may have been in London a thousand times, may know it by heart -  you will fall in love again. Stunning sight, precious ones, nothing like a ride on the London Eye. It feels as if you could touch everything. Mesmerising. You will not even feel like sitting but will stay hours there, noticing new details, rooftops you had never glimpsed before.

The atmosphere varies constantly. Tender, bubbly, glittering, sleepy. Television and internet do not seem to make sense. My balcony was at the corner of the building, offering double the panorama. You can never tire of this…

When the sky started to turn pink, I reluctantly went back inside – it was dinner time. Luckily, there was no need to go far: the hotel restaurant, The Spectrum has a delicious menu. Large room, each table giving you plenty of space for your bags or a pushchair, beautiful design touches and soft light. Bonus points: the only ceiling is 14 floors above, with a glass roof for extra light during the day. Most importantly - conversation do not resonate against concrete above your head which means a quieter atmosphere.

If you are a parent, you probably dread the first look from waiters. Little ones are not always that welcome. I was totally charmed by the staff at the Part Plaza County Hall who took such a loving care of the toddler at the next table, playing and laughing with him. I sincerely could not say who was the most adorable: them or the little boy! They did everything they could to make the meal easy. Not surprising that the hotel has recently been Best Family Friendly Hotel at the HRS Hotel Excellence Awards 2011. They also offer family rooms for parents of two, a dedicated page in the room leaflet with activities adapted to the young ones. You will even find kids slipper in one of your cupboards!

Absorbing the atmosphere, I started reading through the list of mouthwatering dishes. Perfect timing -  I was brought some yummy ciabatta and delicate spirals of butter:

I decided on a classic – Beef Wellington (£19.50). Quite a modern version as this starts with nice buttery pastry gorged on the juices, followed by Portbello mushrooms, a generous portion of the most tender meat… sublimed by a topping of foie gras  and some red wine jus. How could you not melt?

This goes very well with a side dish of samphire salad (£3.50). Such an unusual ingredient yet quite an explosion of flavours and so refreshing too. This was matched with sweet beetroot. Worth trying.

Quite a discovery -  this Merlot Granfort will make you think of juicy red fruit and plums, balanced with a cocktail of spices – pepper, cinnamon, cumin… Sip on it throughout the whole meal – I would even recommend getting a bottle back to your room to be finished on the balcony.

Rather than an espresso which can leave a bitter note, I preferred the creaminess of a coffee crême brûlée (£6.50). Rich, strong flavour in which you can dip with homemade vanilla biscuit. You could almost have two in a row!

I went back to my room incredibly relaxed. The night team had stopped by and  prepared the bed -  oh, so inviting! The mattress was a perfect consistency -  I had not slept so well in months. Different kind of pillows also are available on demand.

The bathroom is particularly pleasant – grey and white marble, shower and bath are separated and two people can get ready without being in the way of the other. The beauty products are by Elemis -  the leading spa brand -  very fragrant and soft on the skin. Nice touch to have added bath salts. It is worth noting that the hotel also has its own spa, Aurora -  I have head a lot of praise on their chocolate massage…

The following morning – it all fell like a dream. I attempted to look for my watch…

Checking the time on Big Ben, your head still on the pillow. That, my friends, is absolutely priceless!

My best advice would be to pay the extra £3 for room service and have your breakfast admiring the awakening city.

However, a copious buffet is available too -  lots of pastries, cured meat, yogurts, fruit salad, and so much more. Your selection of hot food will be prepared on order and the eggs cooked to your preference straight away. Waitresses butterfly from one table to the other with a radiant smile. How can they have so much energy at 07.00am?

Sadly, it was already time to leave. I waited a few more minutes, dreaming, savouring a Nespresso coffee and watching the commuters – little ants form here – struggle to pile in their bus.

A last look. Now, where to go?

An unforgettable experience, first class comfort. An excellent address for a first stay in London especiallay when you have no idea where to start. The concierge is very friendly too -  do not hesitate to ask for his help: he can even help with booking for musicals.

Park Plaza County Hall
1 Addington Street
London
SE1 7RY

Teatime in Wonderland was invited by Park Plaza County Hall

It may be part of the Merlin Group (think London Eye, Legoland…) but Warwick Castle remains one of the best conserved casled in England. look out for one of the 2 for 1 vouchers often available on the web and take the whole family there. There is something for everyone, really. It is a dream come true for children – let them put on their knight and princess disguise to make it even more magical. They will love the medieval scenes, the archers, the various demonstrations… Boys will remain fascinated by the giant catapult being set up. Toddlers will look, amazed, at the peacocks walking free in the park. Adults might prefer the beautiful views on the region or the walk around the mill. A great family day out.

Bonus points:
- .The parking is only a few mn walk from the entrance and cost £5 per day. buy your token on arrival than at the very end to avooir facing queues when the kids will be exhausted.

- Picnic tables are available whithin the park. Wander close to the Orangery, the trees are amazing around there.

Warwick Castle
Warwick
Warwickshire
England
CV34 4QU

Canary Wharf is more than just a forest of imposing towers. This urban jungle is rich in green oasis, fountains, fantastic sculptures. Walk a little further and you will reach cute little houses and gardens, lilac trees growing happily, lavender blooming fragrantly under the sun. Quite a contrast!

Nestled right along the Thames with an amazing view on the O2 is A Grehla, which has now reopened for the summer. This pop-up belongs to the nearby pub, the Gun, a lovely address which has balanced traditional and contemporary notes and is quite loved by the locals. Most people walk or cycle here. Sitting on the terrace will of course be weather dependant but what a pleasure to be outside, feeling the breeze in your hair, listening to the soft sounds of the river and sipping on a glass of wine. Seagulls dance over the water at a distance, a few boats drive past, you cannot hear any siren or traffic noise – you can let go of the daily routines and worries here and just breathe.

Listen - exotic music is playing in the background giving a little salsa or rumba groove. The O2 may be right in front of you but it feels like you have left London far, far behind. It feels like you are on holiday.

The barbecue is already on and your mouth waters – it just smells so good. All fish come from the famous local Billingsgate market – 54 fishmongers offer the largest and freshest choice in the UK. Have a look at the board when coming in to see today’s specials…

The menu is inspired by the grilled specialties of the Algarve, a little escape to the South of Portugal. What will you have? Cataplana, a seafood stew cooked in a copper pot? Salted cod croquettes? Tender brochettes? Portuguese cheese? I decided on the gambas after spying them on a nearby table. Those are cooked in a gorgeous tomato and red pepper sauce with just a touch of parsley. Refined, fragrant without hiding the fish taste, perfect on  a sunny day, so tasty you would easily believe they have just been caught.

I followed with a perfectly grilled seabass. The meat had been slowcooked and could be separated with just a fork, it almost melted in my mouth. My one year old son, who had already had his lunch, ate a third of the plate! It makes you realise than when a product quality is excellent, it really does not need anything -  no seasoning, no lemon, it is just perfect on its own. Restaurants compete so much on creativity than you end up forgetting what real, simple tastes are.

It is also nice to have separate portions of new potatoes with a touch of garlic and salad with tomatoes, onions and herbs.Very refreshing and it also allows you to focus on each taste separately. Never understimate how happy simple dishes can make you! The whole lunch proved particularly soothing. Time just has no value here -  you could stay the whole afternoon.

For the sweet touch, stay on the Portuguese side and try a pasta de natel. This cake is made of a very buttery pastry filled with a beautiful, vanilla custard then sprinkled with cinnamon. Have it with an espresso – just divine.

Verdict? One of those heaven-like places that you will hesitate to share or keep a secret. Such an escape fom the normal London while still being only a 15mn walk from Canary Wharf station, therefore pretty easy to go to. If in doubt, ask for your way, all the locals seem to know it! Go there in the evening or for a week-end lunch with friends. With a glass of sangria, you will reinvent the world and… lick your fingers.

A Grelha
27 Coldharbour
Docklands
London E14 9NS

The restaurant is a jewel nestled in the Hilton. 28th floor. The view on Hyde Park, Buckingham palace, the whole of London is just amazing.  Add to this one of the most famous chefs in town, Chris Galvin, outstanding cuisine.

And behing the gloss and sparkles, a huge heart. You can be in full public view, get awards yet know how to give back.

I joined the most suprising breakfast there, not so long ago. From the top of the tower, the whole team was scutinising the park. Left? No. Around the lake? No.

And then a voice – here is one!

Early that morning, a hundred people all in yellow T-shirts met at the Serpentine. All of them were to join Galvin’s Chance race. The association, supported by Hilton and many volunteers, aims at giving 18-24s in difficulties a better chance in life by integrating them to their work environment. Most often, it takes little but support to make them realise they have a different present and future whithin their power -  they regain confidence, they work hard, they, in turn, will help others too. Each runner got sponsored by friends, family, colleagues. On the whole £20000 were raised. Quite something, hey? And they all survive the 4 km sprint around the lake then 475 steps to reach the restaurant.

Amazing to see their cheerfulness, their bright smiles after such an effort. They grab a towel, share news all around, stand their talking a bacon roll in one hand, a glass of champagne in the other. None of them find the taskextraordinary: they just used one of their favourite hobbies to do something useful. Every little helps – time and effort can bring greater things.

The winner on that day actually works in the restaurant – Emeric Hurault, who concludes the race in 18mn and  58 seconds. Looking around you realise that no one lost here, they all earned greatness by joining the cause.

We will come back for sure to taste the mouth-watering menu, marvel at the view on a sunny day… but also because ethics do matter. because by only sitting there and enoying a 5* dinner, you are supporting those community efforts and that is worth clapping for.

Galvin at Windows
22 Park Lane
London W1K 1BE

Galvin’s chance

The Society of Garden Designers and the RHS organise, a few times a year, the opening of private gardens. They always are little treasure, pieces of paradise.

Like today – the Blue Fin Building‘s, just behind the Tate Modern.

Looking up, no sign of a tree or a single green leaf. Did we get the address wrong?

On the 10th floor is a huge terrasse and a green oasis. Multiple chairs and tables enable the staff to have their lunch under the open sky. Benches hide behind a vine, a jasmine hedge, a line of rosemary. The sun is shining hard, creating a very fragranced atmosphere. Mathew Bell added elegant curves to what could have been a simple concrete space. Urban poetry.

Just imagine taking your sandwich break here. Or sitting on this roof top for the last debriefing of the day as the sky starts to turn pink.
Country Homes & Interiors have their editorial office here and took it a step further, creating a vegetable patch, using the abundance of light to their advantage. On the menu? Runner beans, salads, peppers, herbs, blackcurrant, courgettes, strwaberries… A fabulous idea worth stealing. Maybe even a tred: the Londonist also have started theirs.

I so wish those and kids nurseries were compulsory in any new building of that size. As space on the ground gets scarcer for parks and squares, why not use those towers to their best? Not only would that be more ecological but it would tremendously change the work atmosphere. Push people to have more social time at work rather than have their sandwich in front of their computer. Talk, exhange, get a little fresh air, destress.

Mark September 25 in your agenda to discover more of those precious gardens.

This former covered market still is used a covered shopping gallery these days. Best time to visit it is right after office hours -  when the City guys are relaxing over a pint, getting rid of that tie knot. What a buzz!

At the week-end, the place is completed deserted – come a nd have a quiet look at the steel lace. Try to imagine the 19th century London life.. or Old Tom, a goose who survived the slaughter of 34 000 birds od her kind  but finally was adopted by the mercheants. If you are lucky, you will stumble on a private party or, like us a few months ago, a Bollywood filming, Western style (yep, with cowboy hats) and… bagpipe players. That’s globalisation for you!

Leadenhall Market
City of London
London EC3V 1LT

Fabulous initiative of the National Gallery and GE to have recreated one of Van Gogh’s painting as a vegetal wall -  the palette counts 8000 plants of 25 varieties.
Passers by stoop, carress the leaves, check day after day whether blooms have apppeared.
An idea we hope will be reproduced each summer…

Trafalgar Square
London
Until end of October 2011 – free

Go and see the original painting at the National Gallery, room 45

Rather than jumping in the lift, find those wooden stairs. The view from the last floor really makes it worth climbing those.

Also at Liberty:
* Such a British dining room
* Thread and needles
* Sail away

Liberty
Regent Street
London W1B 5AH

Christopher Miers was standing on the side of the bridge, absorbed in his own world.
Time seemed to have a different texture around him, almost palpable. His brushes caressed the canvas ever so gently. Passers-by, always in a rush, surrounded him in a humming noise.
His gaze was focused on the veil of clouds above – dark ash a minute, silvery the next. Patiently, he was trying to capture the dancing light.

I watched him a long time, dreaming away, fascinated by the waves of colour, slowly recreating a landscape I had forgotten to enjoy.
We shared a few words. Soft friendlyvoice, warm handshake.

And sometimes, as I work on dull files in an electrically lit room, I stop and wonder whether he is sitting in his floating studio, palette in hand…