Tea Time in Wonderland

Posts Tagged ‘Nice view!’

It may be particularly central, but I tend to avoid charing Cross Tube station. It seems more greyish, more depressing than any of the others… Although I read cineast do prefer it when they need a “modern” station in the background!

I took a different entrance than I usually do and suddenly found this black and white mural. Quite a long one – a hundred meters, inspired by medieval design.

This scene was drawn by David Gentleman to commemorate Eleanor de Castille’s (Edward I’s wife) funeral trip.

What interest? Wait – it’s quite an atypic last journey…

Edward I had business to do in Nottinghamshire. His spouse followed, though at a slower rater as she was feverish. She will not reach th final destination, dying a little before Lincoln. The King arrives in time to listen to her death wishes. He’s heartbroken – 36 years of marriage – she was only 13 when they wedded – 16 children and one of the happiest royal marriages in the British History…

The Queen wanted to lay in Westminster Abbey. 145 miles from there – we are in 1290 and the roads are not so good. She is therefor embalmed for the journey. That implies evisceration… her organs will be buried in Lincoln’s cathedral (and are still there to this day).

The trip back will take 12 days. Inspired by the French King Louis IX’s funeral procession (the only French king to have been cannonised, by the way), he decides to have a cross put up each time they stop for the night – a symbol of his grief and a hope that traveller’s will pray for Eleanor’s soul. Time is short, it will first be a wooden cross, replaced in the following years by sculpted stone ones. All of them must follow three steps: the lower base must show the late queen’s coats of arms, the middle level have statues of Eleanor then finish by a column topped by a cross.

Out of them all (Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford, Geddington, Northampton, Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St Albans, Waltham, Westcheap, Charing), only three survived. Note that the last one was in Charing… which name transformed in time in Charing Cross… Unfortunately, it was destroyed during the Civil War, and replaced by an equastrian statue of Charles I (considered as the true center of London). A more intricate copy was built during the Victorian times, just in front of the actual Charing Cross railway station, a street from there.

Following her wishes, her body rests in Westminster Abbey… and her heart in the Blackfriars priory.

And you thought it was just a silly mural, eh?

Tottenham Court Road is certainly my favourite Tube station. Busy for sure, but hey, it also shelter 1000 square meters of crazy and colourful mosaics. I never get tired of fixing the geometric shapes, discover a new object each time… Butterflies, masks (many references to the British Museum), saxophons, a heron, a cow, a chicken, a satellite…

This work of art by the Scottish artist Paolozzi (the pioneer of pop art in England) however proves very tricky: how to renovate and modernise the station without destroying them? It took years of work in the early 1980ies and will take as much to take the tiles down…

Had never heard of the guy? You probably already know another of is sculptures though – the giant holding a compass at the entry of the British Library. Why not hunt his other treasures with this Londonist list?

Fed up with the Xmas spirits, the enless chase of the perfect gift, the false beards on Santas? Would much prefer to press fast forward to your ski holidays?

Well, I have the perfect break for you – climb up to the Rooftop Alpine Lodge. Chalet atmosphere, very cosy, wooden decoration, fur on the stools, bowl of nuts with a nutcracker on the side, open fire, logs… have a look outside – the mini-terrasse is covered in snow, the trees are silvered and there’s even a mini helicopter.

You forget everything instantly. Take your shoes off, indulge with a pair of thick socks – plenty available for free when you come in.

Order a mulled wine – peppery, lots of orange notes, the best I have had in years. But be warned: you’ll feel so comfy, hypnotised by the dancing flames of the fire that there are high chances you will either spend the whole afternoon there if not fall asleep!

Mulled wine is at £4 – other cocktails (including some caramel vodka) are available. Or order some charcuterie, tartiflette, fondue to share (for £2, count £18/£20/£20).

The rooftop Alpine Lodge
2a Tabernacle Street
London EC2A 4LU


Booking: 07000 847876
Open till the end of February 2010

Feeling like a little luxury in your life? Step in New Bond St, ideal after visiting Fortnum & Mason and Burlington Arcade.

If you only stop at one window, let it be Tiffany’s.

Not so much for its twinkling garlands…

…than for its exquisite paper lace scenes, elegant, refined, white turning into magical blues…

Pause for Cartier too…

Admire the competition of the garlands around the various shop windows…

Gaze in amazement at Asprey’s Xmas tree…

…and flower shops have a very British sense of humour!

And of course…

It all started last week.

London is switching her Xmas lights on,  little by little, each  one turning into a mini-party (as much for the celebration as to boost sales in the shops)…

Covent Garden chose recoving chandeliers, hypnotising…

While outside plays with blue…

Rudolph even makes an appearance…

A detour for my friend Lupin who, like me, never resists Fortnum and Masons’ displays.

A very original and elegant theme this year, the Swan’s lake…

The royal birds even remplace Santa for carrying gifts…

Very soft deco with white feathers everywhere…

Stop nearby -  the Prince’s arcade has a Victorian Xmas feeling to it…

What? You haven’t started on this shopping list yet?

That’s it. The season has begun. Fetsive songs can  be heard as soon as you step into a shop. Mulled wine or Winter Pimm’s are being served in pubs.

Not suprising, then, that Oxford and Regent street lights should already be switched on. this year, Disney sponsors them, launching at the same time their movie with Jim Carrey.

Call me blase. Though I still feel like a child at Xmas, those just don’t make me gasp. The magic does work on my 4 year olod, though – I had to negotiate hard to drag her away from those  after 2omn!

I do prefer the Carnaby St ones. Less traditional I agree, perheaps too funky for the season, they do put a little grooves back to your day! You’ll also see plenty mini-Xmas trees in rainbow colours. The lights will be switched on next Tuesday at 18.oo… Bond Street, next Thursday, also promises to be fun.

Since you’re in that neighbourhood,, stop at Liberty’s to smile at their new windowshop. Sooooo British! And if you’re dreaming, not of a white Xmas but of a royal one, plan a visit to Portobello market.

A last smile with this robin. Too many Xmas puddings, my dear!

A slightly select address. More romantic, more of a celebration than having a pint @ the local pub.

You’re at the limit with the City, the bankers’ quarters, big names have their headquarters around here. You’ll see people in workins suits and ties.

Booking is mandatory, where you want to dine or just have a glass. Don’t be intimidated by the voice claiming they are fuuly booked. Insist on being put on the waiting list: they called me back whithin 12 hours to take my credit card number and guarantee my reservation (quite common in upmarket places: it forces you to be there on time or at least to have the courtesy to cancel which you might not do @ Pizza Express).

Stepping in the building is already an experience. The web site indicated smart dress- no worry, there’s no need to get your tux or cocktail dress  out. Elegant is more the word – lovely dress, great shirt and trousers, even nice jeans on a Friday night. We could get in without a tie. Avoid trainers though. We get a visitor badge at reception. Then there’s security, bags x-raying, metallic door. No risk taken here. VIP effect – especially if you wanted to impress a friend!

You’ll find a lift dedicated to Vertigo -no stop, it will take you there in 50 seconds. The staff is welcoming, the waiter will propose options, check on you regularly but will not force anything on you. Neither will he raise a brow if you only go for the one drink. Champagne is on the menu but also 5 cocktails, including a delicious litchee belini, a refreshing Kir Royal and a champagne, angustura and cognac that will make your eyes twinkle with happiness.

Wow exclamation also garanteed, even for blase people like me whoo have seen so many cities from towers already, dined in revolving restaurants, walked on glass roofs, even climbed on a 5* hotel roof in Paris to get a better view of the Louvre. Transparent tables follow the wal structure to give you a plunginh view down the city – litterally a carpet at your feet. the view’s great everywhere but do stop after coming in: you’ll see Tower Bridge and the London Eye. You’ll feel like a bird looking at stars below you.

Conversation? Superfluous. You’re hypnotised by the view. A cocktail is £12.50, but gosh, the magic is worth it…

A bit too smart for you to feel comfortable? head for those instead:
- Detroit, ideally placed close to Covent Garden. Galleries with splendid arches. Try the Twinkle: vodka, champagne, elderflower- £6.95
- Calloo Callay, in Shoreditch. Small prices for lunch and dinner, fun deco mixing 70ies with a sense of humour. If you’re coming with friends, order the ‘Mad Hatters Tiki Punchbowl’, served as tradition request in a punch bowl… but on a gramophone! (rum, creme de peche, rhubarb, ginger, lemon, angostura and grapefruit). Count £7-£8.50 for a cocktail.
- Le coq d’argent – terrasse with grass and a view on the City. Excellents cocktails, the best I have had so far. The barman delighted in creating a cocktail based on my mood – a green apple martini. You could have sworn he pressed the fruit in it to get each of the flavours out! I only payed £8.
- Want a very British side… A mar-tea-ni anyone? Served in a teapot, enough for 2. £7.50 at the Cavendish Hotel.

Vertigo 42
Tower 42
25 Old Broad St
London, EC2N 1HQ
Tube: Liverpool st

If you’re a London lover, you probably know Southbank by heart. you could trace your way with your eyes closed. Somehow, this path is printed within your every cell.

Of course, you always have a look at the sand sculptors @ Gabriel’s wharf, where the river uncovers a perfect beach.

I like to add a twist to this walk. Rather than the usual tourist way, I take the stair down at that point and walk along the river when the tide is low. Too many tourist, too much noise during the day: try this on a lovely evening! The path alternates between rocks and beaches. You will collect a few pieces of china, smoothed to perfection by the current. These wooden pillars, almost disappearing in the ground now, used to support a pier. The waves sing softly a few meters from you. The City takes a surreal look from down here, colours shine everywhere.

I usually go up to The Founder’s Arms pub, right before the Tate but you will find stairs before that. A lovely walk outside the usual buzz!

Nothing seduces me more than a clash, a romance, a twist between classic and modern. See Koon’s and Veilhan’s recent success in Versailles.

If, like me, you’re waiting for the crowds to be less imposing to enjoy Anish Kapoor’s exhibition, do give it a try and head for the Royal Academy of Art all the same. As soon as you step in the yard, this imposing steel sculpture towers you – 15 meters high! Inspired by the german poet Maria Rilke, Kappor created Tall tree and the eye, a complex building of 76 spheres, each reflecting the noble building and tourists to infinity… Hynotising!

If you like shiny surprises, you’ve got till Sunday to see a giant silver inflatable rabbit in Covent Garden!

Anish Kapoor
Royal Academy of Art
Burlington House
Piccadilly
London W1J 0BD
Exhibition £12 but no worry, you can access this yard and the sculpture for free!

Fancy find a piece of Cambridgeshire whithin London? Come with me – it’s the Mitre pub you need.

You see the sign from a distance, lonly on the pavement, amost suspended in the trees.. Turn right in a narrow corridor – 25 m long! – to find it. You can picture it in a Harry Potter book, hidden away, full of mysteries and wizards.

Very near still stand a spendid palace where the bishops of Ely used to stay when coming to London for business. Stories of the time decribe gorgeous gardens, fountains,  orchards and even vines. They were so proud of it they built a wall to separate it from ugly London. It was even decided it would come under Cambridgeshire’s jurisdiction.

In 1546, the original Mitre is built as a drinking place for the servants working at Ely’s Place. In 1772, it is briefly detroyed only to be rebuilt as an exact copy.

In 1576, Elisabeth I’s favourite, Christopher Halton, succeeds to get possession of half the building. A cherry tree is decided for the limit separating the grounds. The Queen is said to have danced the Maypole around it. Truth or romance? Anyway, a part of it is still preciously preserved.

The pub is usually closed when I walk by… The palace has long been sold to the crown of course. Cambridgeshire has given the rights back to the borough of Camden of course. But this public house prefers to keep with the old rules and still closes at 10.00pm…

Ye Old Mitre
1, Ely Court
Ely Place
London, EC1N 6SJ
Tube: Chancery lane