Tempo
54 Curzon Street
Mayfair
London, W1J 8PG

The hotel offers many lounges to have a chat, an afternoon tea, a cocktail or just relax. There also is an amazing art collection, including some pieces of Diego Riviera’s paintings, a piano, rich flower arrangements.

And, in the cocoon atmosphere of the room, you will suddenly feel like kicking off your heels, make yourself a coffee form the Nespresso machine, pile the mountain of cushions high and leaf through the magazines on the side. Heaven. Or maybe run a bath, try the selection of fragrant Taylor of Bond Street products and wrap yourself in the fluffy towels warm from the electric holder. All this in lovely toffee colours, wooden notes, pure lines and large windows pouring natural light in.

Get up and you will realise there is no need for this huge plasma screen. From the fourth floor, London seems all yours -  you can see so much of it! BT Tower, the City, the London Eye, Westminster… An extraordinary postcard. Even on a greyish day, the contrast of the clouds with the bronze roofs is just fascinating. A very privileged view indeed.

Just imagine breakfast in your room, still in your robe, steaming cup of tea in hand. Eggs with an hollandaise sauce or English breakfast, fresh fruit juice, croissants, a card with the quote of the day, the morning papers. What a dream, right?

Verdict: Fabulous. Very friendly and helpful staff, elegant rooms, extra-comfortable bed and the best location you can dream of. One of those hotels you can go to with your eyes closed, knowing everything will be perfect… Take the time to try their restaurant, the Petrichor, who prepare British seasonal product deliciously.

The Cavendish London
81 Jermyn Street
London SW1 6JF

Pssst!

My waitress proved adorable -  butterflying form one table to another, checking on everyone, explaining the focus on British products, the ingredients of a sauce, sharing a few words on London, making the experience friendly and personal rather than just a service. Seeing that I was still absorbed in the menu, she gently placed a selection of bread on the table: very meridional, one with black olives, another enhanced with dried tomatoes, both gorgeous with the creamy butter.

The week-end was starting and this just called for celebration -  a glass of Cuatra Rayas Verdejo “Vinedos Centenarios” was in order. Rich but crispy, a touch of lime and green apple on the tip of the tongue, a longer grassy note, a little bit of fennel on the finish. Gorgeous wine for an apéritif but also for salads and fish dishes. This on oysters must simply be glorious. Bonus points for adding organic, fairtrade, bio-dynamic choices on the list, as well as three British selections (yes! British wine, too long ignored has improved so much in the last few years it is coming back on the map) from Chapel Down.

Another pleasant touch -  mineral water is from Blenheim Palace rather than the French or Italian usual choices. It proves as refreshing, slightly sweeter and adds a royal touch to the experience. The story says that Henry II pleased his mistress by adding a pleasure pool, fed by an ancient spring which never went dry…

The starter was an ode to spring: perfect asparagus (a must in this season), slightly crunchy still. Cured ham, very fragrant, almost floral, so very tender, the kind you want to fold in a flower shape and take to picnics with you, perfect with the peppery rocket salad. On the side,  a port wine reduction, beautiful fruity and complex notes. And a wonderful discovery – raise your hand if you already knew this – Cornish Yarg cheese. This creation by Lynher Dairies is wrapped in nettle leaves when ageing, adding a very unique and delicate flavour, soft and hard at the same time. Another version exists, wrapped in wild garlic leaves. Have a look at their website, as beautiful as their cheese is good. Convinced, intrigued? You can order it online or simply stop at Paxton and Whitfield, in the same street, to buy some.Mains offer Welsh lamb, organic chicken from Devon, Irish beef fillet… and trout from Wiltshire which won my heart straight away. The flesh is so less oily than salmon and so more refined too. Cooked with its skin, each forkful was deliciously crunchy on top. The fish was served on a bed of Anna potatoes (thin creamy and melt-in-the mouth slices) with a bunch of samphire (splendid with the trout), glazed carrots and a beautiful herb sauce. Divine.

In the list of desserts, one particularly caught my eye – the chocolate and elderflower mousse. Now, these two flavours, separate, I can picture. I have seen chocolate with basil, ginger, lavender, jasmine, rose, wasabi even but this is very unusual. Curiosity wins. The ganache is particularly unctuous, rich, velvety, wraps the inside of the cheeks. This is topped by an elderflower jelly, thus giving two textures. Very surprising, they match perfectly yet remain very distinct on the tongue. And so you study the alliance, spoonful after spoonful and realise you have finished the plate. remains the buttery shortbread (just like I like them, pure indulgence) topped with popping candy: a fireworks finish.


With this, try the Rioja Crianza, Castillo di Clavijo which alternates juicy cherries and cacao notes. Rich in tannin, give it a few minutes to breathe and open up. A ruby coloured jewel wine. Very glamorous on the lips too.

Verdict? One of those London hidden gems that needs to be shouted about. Ideal to catch up with friends, romantic dinners, bring parents-in-law (I defy them to find anything to criticize). The menu adapts easily to all gourmets: creativity, top-quality products with a few surprises, classics mastered to perfection. A great address to discover British flavours in refined environment. I am very curious to see their menu evolving with the seasons.

Petrichor
The Cavendish
81 Jermyn Street
London SW1 6JF

Pssst!
20% off total Petrichor bill when ordering from a la carte when booking through Facebook.

Decoration is simple and it is all part of the charm. It has this warm and friendly touch from the south of the US -  the colours, the sense of humour, the welcome, the menu with home-cooked food and excellent prices. People relax instantly -  no need to pretend, businessmen get rid of their tie, families share combos, friends cheer to a beautiful day spent together. A whole mix of people brought together by the atmosphere.

We stopped by at the end of a sunny afternoon and decided to enjoy the blue sky a little longer, sitting at one of the outside tables. It just called for a Pina Colada, the perfect holiday touch, velvety touch of the coconut sweetened by the rum and a generous serving of fresh pineapple juice. The range of cocktail is large, some are served in jugs. Children can enjoy milk-shakes like the fab Graceland (vanilla, peanut butter, banana) and parents an upgraded version spiked with alcohol.  Below is the Pirates of the Caribbean, mixing vanilla ice cream, rum, coconut cream -  the little plus that makes such a difference -  fresh mint. Oh, and it leaves delicious moustaches too.

We could not choose in the long list of starters -  chicken wings with voodoo sauce? Deep fried calamari?  Fresh shucked oysters? Stuffed Jalapeno Peppers? Our waitress came to the rescue, advising the mussels, which fragrance is divine. those have been cooked in a beautiful sauce of onions and white wine, even enjoyable on its own, spoonful after spoonful. Do try the roasted potato skins too, with a fluffy mash enhanced with spring onions and loaded with mature cheddar. Add a little sour cream for extra pleasure. Beware, if you came with kids they will make those disappear in no time so race them!

One of the specialties is a royal dish indeed -  lobster. Oh my, what a treat! The team goes to the market on a daily basis to ensure the best quality and the freshest produce. In top restaurants, you will need to empty your wallet for a tiny piece presented beautifully. Here the deal is much more honest: the whole beast, a 2lb lobsters with fries and salad for only £19.95 (every Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 5pm). You read that right a whole kilo, the most delicate flesh, almost sweet. Of course, you will have to forget elegance. The whole fun is into using your fingers, crack the shell, extract as much as you can. Greediness will reveal unsuspected dexterity and textures vary whether it is the tender insides, the leg, the claw. A few minutes and you will understand better the plastic bib brought with the plate. Yes, the picture will make your friends smile yet put it on FB with a few words about your dinner and they will all be envious (and probably will try the place within days). The lobster is served with a choice of three sauces -  sweet chili, Hollandaise and our favourite Thermidor with a touch of mustard. Other great ideas -  the possibility to have crab instead or even a plate of both steak and lobster.

Big Easy also is famous for their barbecued meat.  The house sauce is almost caramelised, slightly smoked. Some cross the whole town for it. “We Serve Only The Biggest & The Best”, they say and they do not lie. The portions are gorgeous AND amazingly huge. Still no meat lover would accept to leave a single forkful of it.  The menu offers a selection of back ribs, chicken, combination of both and even a version with grilled shrimps, each with creamy coleslaw, fries (French or thick) and BBQ beans to die for. It has a Western movie dimension to it, cowboys sitting close to a camp fire on a starry night.

Keep some space for dessert, if only to share the waffles. Apple-cinnamon, strawberry-sugar syrup, chocolate sauce, each matched to a crunchy basket filled with vanilla ice-cream. So lovely you will want to order another one. Share? Ah, what a silly idea that was.

Before coming for lunch or dinner, don’t forget to check the deal of the day on the website. On Mondays for example, you can indulge in the “All you can eat BBQ” for £14.95, beer included. I do not know any guy who would refuse such an offer. On some evenings, there will also be live music -  just the perfect place to celebrate life with friends, an address to cherish.

Big Easy
332-334 Kings Road
Chelsea
London, SW3 5UR

This fabulous address belongs to the Drake & Morgan family and you probably already know The Refinery, The Folly, The Anthologist and The Drift. Each has its own very original and design universe, different all along the room. You can lose track of time by looking at all the details, the cocoon atmosphere. The Parlour mixes inspiration from home and garden in the furniture, summer colour aniseed, sky blue, bright yellow, aromatic herbs on the tables, comfy armchairs and sofas, a play on heights. The result is a very refreshing alfresco effect.

Here, the art of breakfast cocktails is brought to perfection -  the perfect festive note for a brunch. At the heart of the room is a counter displaying all the ingredients of a Bloody Mary. Oh, not only the usual recipe, a whole list of alternatives: whisky, tequila, sauvignon rather than vodka, pickles, clamato juice. Change a tiny detail and you rediscover it entirely. The same, yet entirely different -  a cryptic sentence that suddenly means something. The menu proposes, amongst many others, the Celery Mary (Ketel One vodka,  tomato and celery juice,  lemon juice, strawberry basalmic vinegar, salt, pepper and tabasco) and the Caprese Mary (Ketel One vodka,  tomato and celery juice, basil julienne, strawberry basalmic vinegar, cherry tomatoes, celery salt, black pepper). Each week, new creations are put forward or if a specific idea really intrigues you, ask them! I really fell for the Kimchi Mary (£8.95) which marries sake, tomato and celery juice, wasabi, Szechuan pepper, rice wine vinegar and pickled ginger. Extraordinary. Your tastebuds suddenly wake up, wasabi and ginger just enhancing all the senses, you feel completely re-energised.

Other breakfast concoctions also are available with new options each week-end. The one below is a breakfast martini (£7) – chilled, sweet, bourbon and vanilla, crowned with a egg-based foam so velvety it feels like a carress on the lips. Served with bacon, it brings an amazing sweet-salt taste and quite a range of textures. Naughty but nice, very well said indeed and so worth a try!

Is it too early for alcohol yet? You are not doomed to the usual orange juice. see this one? This is a Juice Pharmacy (£4.50) with green apple, raspberry and celery. Amazing as each taste is very clear for a couple seconds then blends it wonderfully together. Thirst-quenching and I would not mind getting those in a jug, you just want more of it. Orange juice? Ah! Boring!

On that day, the team were filming demonstrations of the new creations to go on the menu. We were lucky to taste a few like Away with the fairies, which composition escapes me but which evokes spring mornings, bright and cheerful, full of flavours.  Down the rabbit hole will amaze you too: a very clever mix of limoncello and poppy liqueur. Floral, a little bubble-gum-like, one of those drinks that make you lick your lips. The last one will go on the dessert cocktails list and oh, do I love that concept! Perfect where you can’t manage the chocolate fondant but can’t resist a sweet finish either. Like, mmmh, the crème brûlée martini,  or the maple-espresso version… Ours had sherry, cream and coffee, slight caramel note, lingers on the tongue… the cute bottle is topped with an ice-cream cone and tequila chantilly (yeah, wow, right?) and a flake. Not a basic chocolate one, no, every little detail matters: a brownie one.

English breakfast is a must but let’s be frank, on a plate it does not look very glamorous. The Parlour has thought of those wooden boards instead and each separate part suddenly looks very elegant. You can make your ideal version too as each ingredient exist as extra.

The classic are all there: Florentine eggs or Benedict, scrambles (with or without salmon), boiled with soldiers. Bacon or sausage sandwich, bubble and squeak but also steak with roasted potatoes. Mouthwatering -  if you cannot make up your mind, have a look at the open kitchens, maybe this will help! We loved the very last choice Californian Kick Start (£7.95). Delicious AND healthy -  what more could you wish for? English muffin, hummus, avocado, flat mushroom, roasted plum tomatoes, poached eggs and a sweet chili toast. Gorgeous.

Depending at which time you arrive, you could mix both the breakfast and lunch options. Like those delicious crab raviolis that make in the mouth, such a tender heart, a little pesto. Add a few leaves from the herbs on the table -  fresh basil on this is divine. Don’t worry, the plants have been thought this way so enjoy!

The chef believes in fresh products only, on home made sauces. He also is incredibly creative -  an idea a minute! The specials are really worth the detour. Those are rich scallops brushed with a tangy barbeque sauce on an unctuous mash hiding a heart of lobster and drizzled with truffle oil, to alternate with a tomato salsa (£13.95). Such a range of luxurious tastes, sublime.

The most delicious experience, excellent background music too, classics, a little jazz too -  we arrived at 13.00 and did not leave before 16.30… I will definitely come back to try the speakeasy, a hidden dimmed room, open on Wednesdays and Thursdays. The other days, you can book it to enjoy a romantic cocktail.

The Parlour also opens up on Canada Square -  think terrace, green lawn and recently installed a fun musical sculpture. And soon, with the days getting longer, there will be a barbeque/rotisserie option outside too. That’s it – summer meeting place found. Believe me you will be back again and again. So much to try and always a surprise! Also a good place to start a walk from Canary Wharf to Tower Bridge.

The Parlour
The park pavilion,
40 canada square park,
London e14 5fw

Tonight, the dinner is slightly different. We are here for a secret product launch, which sounds very enigmatic. Well thought though -  with no idea what the menu is nor seeing you plate, you leave stereotypes at the door. The first dish arrives, the waiter explains his moves, the position of the plate in front of you, checks everything is ok. Time to explore, first timidly, then with appetite. We try to recognise the shapes, the textures. Ah, this is potatoe, very sweet. This a lemony sauce, unctuous and fragrant. Broccolis, quite tender with a fabulous horseradish sauce. Then some kind of salomn en croute , melt-in-the mouth fish and leeks with lovely pastry. And in the last quarter…? Chicken? Tofu? Noone can place it. We all speculate.

In the darkness, conversations feel so much easier even with complete strangers. There is comfort in the absence of sight – you can relaxe, eat with your fingers without anyone judging or worrying about looking silly. You tend to confide more, focusing on voices that sound so soothing.

Oh, here is dessert. Everything has gone ever so smoothly! Now, the ice cream is easy to recognise, lots od dark cacao and cherries in that. In a cup is a fruity cream, apricot, peach maybe? Quite delectable and served with a crunchy caramel tile. Last, a jelly or flan? Milk based, flavoured with some alcohol infused fruit on top. The only problem here is you cannot see whether you could steal some more from your table neighbours…

We still have no clue what the secret  was. A spice? A cereal? A sugar substitute? Dinner was excellent -  no impression of being outside our comfort zone. What could it be? We step back into the light with a little regret. This was quite amusing and we would have quite liked to try a few more spoonfuls just for the fun of it!

A few more steps… This was… Alpro. Well done. Of course, we usually tend to stop at the word soja. We are convinced we will taste it. We didn’t. We happily stand corrected. Each of the savoury sauce was prepared with their soja milk and cream – yet noone knew. The unknown dish that got us all wondering was… Wagyu beef! Desserts were based on the same ingredients, adding some of their creamy yogurts. They even have prepared profiteroles with those and they get endless mmmmhs. We are totally amazed. Cooking with soja has this “special diet”/”healthy” side and most of us -me first- do not consider it might also be quite gourmet. And since, I have added Alpro products to my shopping trolley. The kids are very fond of the chocolate puddings and flavoured milk and I keep having to restock on those. My favourite treat are the cherry yogurts -  gorgeous and guilt free as they help decreasing my cholesterol in the process.

There was more to discover too, Alpro are launching hazelnut and almond milks. Those are quite big on the French market but were more difficult to get here  for the general public. Nothing to do with cows nor soja: those are just nuts and pure spring water. And yet, they are infused with so much taste and prove very refreshing. There are a thousand ways to use them – I now make a hazelnut latte for breakfast. So much more interesting that I have now completely stopped adding sugar to it. I have tried using those in milkshakes and rice puddings with great success too -  they make each dish more refined let alone bring vitamins, calcium and fibers. I do prefer the hazelnut but the kids love the almond one with just a touch of violet cordial.

Verdict? Well, this made me go further than “what I thought I like and did not like”. I also like the “lighter feeling” it brings. It is as filling as the products you used before but without the “balloon effect”. Good for the tastebuds and good for you. Double bingo!

Why? Ingredients are as seasonal as possible, presentation is meticulous, artistic, the thinking modern. Most importantly, the flavours and textures bring some unusual combinations that make you rediscover a dish entirely. No wonder chef Morgan Meunier is used to Michelin stars and rosettes

I was late on that day, cheeks all pink for having run. I rushed in and asked in a half broken voice where the event was taking place. the team proved adorable, took coat and bag from me, let me catch my breath, asked whether I wanted to drink something, water, wine, whatever I needed, admired my camera, made my smile. The French charm without the arrogance.

A look at the menu and you know straight away this is going to be a wonderfully festive meal. Even the amuse bouche is a surprise -  a cream of Mojettes beans. The waiter brought the plate with just a few ingredients – fine lemon zests, melt-in-the-mouth beans, diced pepper, a spoonful of fragrant pesto – then poured the velvety soup. Exquisite. Unctuous. Each note reveals itself slowly as you make your way through the dish. So very soft on the palate, a citrus infused perfume. You get to the last spoonful with a pang of regret, look with envy at your neighbour’s. Just in case.

This was matched to a glass of Le Lesc 2010.This blend of ugni blanc and colombard proves very floral, very poetic with green apple, lemongrass, lime, basil -  enchanting and very refreshing indeed.

The starter is a quite a dream creation -  crayfish and lobster cannelloni, enhanced with tarragon, moist and tender, with a slightly aniseed note. With it, perfectly cooked spinach and a smooth Jerusalem Artichoke soubise. Even better still, a shellfish cappuccino, light as champagne bubbles. Each mouthful combines the different creams and you just have to close your eyes and smile.  You stop talking. There is no need. You are enjoying the moment fully. This is THE dish you absolutely have to order from that menu, even make a detour for.

Try it with a Château Clement-Termes Gaillac Sec – there is mucadelle in it, my favourite grape for its honey hints. You will also taste pear, peach, passionfruit. A very cheerful wine, a must with seafood.

Follows another sea delight – seabass grilled to perfection, crusty on top, with an exotic carrot and ginger risotto, infusing the fish. The cloud like broth with lemon and saffron transports your senses  entirely – memories of fresh pineapple and mango, a ray of warm sunshine. Have it with some Albarino from the Rias Baixas region, a sauvignon blanc with a fruity and sparkling heart, pure happiness.

The meat dish was fascinating -  look at that plate, a real contemporary work of art, clever mix of textures and flavours. I tried the venison first – first class meat and such character, on a bed of cabbage in beautiful peppery sauce chasseur. On the side, a farci of hare with quince purée, so unusual, such a range of sensations on the tongue. So new that you have to discuss it this time, compare notes with your friends, try to understand it further.

This is an excellent Bourgueil 2010 with a floral bouquet, a touch of liquorice (ideal with meat of such strength), lots of red fruit, raspberries and cherries.

Sweet time! To prepare the palate, we go back to childhood memories. A crunchy orange tile – think crepe Suzette -  is folded very stylishly and filled with creamy vanilla rice puddings. A very jewel presentation, crowned with a quenelle of pinacolada sorbet, great coconut texture, a real treat.

Last but nor least, a dark chocolate moelleux with a melting heart. Wonderful with the handful of pistachio on the side and the milk sorbet with its caramel circle. And yes, you will end up with chocolate moustaches. Sumptuous with some Mas Amiel 2009, one of those cult wines that you can only imagine with cacao – explosion of blackberries and red fruit, nutmeg and cinnamon, sweet spices, toffee. Satin-like.

Verdict ? Bravo. Really. And this winter menu – 6 dishes -  is only £50/person, £80 if you go for wine (6 glasses in total). A rare price for such a quality, refinement and skills! If you are vegetarian, rejoice: a full menu similar to that one and as mouth-watering, has been designed too. Dimmed light, quiet atmosphere, no background music, no need to raise your voice to chat -  a fabulous choice for romantic dinners. Just saying.

Morgan M
50 Long Lane
London EC1A 9EJ

Teatime in Wonderland was a guest of Morgan M

The Lobby bar, elegant and spacious, has been my favourite meeting place recently. Imagine enjoying an afternoon tea (and believe me, their Battenberg is worth stopping for) or a cocktail here, amidst works of art and floral scenes… The tables are set to create mini-lounges and facilitate conversation, the atmosphere therefore cozy, intimate. You never have to raise your voice to make yourself heard, which in London is quite precious indeed.

Ideally, if it is just the two of you, try and get a space at the bar. The mixologists here have style. I expect Bond could not do better would he consider a change of career – something in the elegance of the gestures, even the way they pour the drink. Ask for one of their flamed cocktails -  the preparation is fascinating. Rory Slater, their Food and Beverage Director mentioned on the hotel’s Facebook page(worth following as they also include London tips!) he is looking at creating a signature drink which would become as iconic as the Singapore Sling is to the Raffles Hotel. I certainly will be delighted to discover this – watch that space!

The lounge also welcomes children and has mocktails on the menu (although I have seen them challenged with a glass of warm milk with a touch of cocoa sprinkled on top and yes, they will get it for you with a smile). Louise*Anne, whose favourite colour as you can guess is pink, never hesitated: the Smooth Berries (£6) had her name on it. Blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, pomegranate and cranberry juice – 5 a day in a glass! The waitress even brought a second straw so she could share with her favourite fluffy bear as well as a plate of homemade biscuits in case she did not like the savoury mix. At that, my daughter whispered to me: Is it like that every day in a princess’ life?

Note this down – dessert cocktails. What a fabulous idea to finish a meal on a lighter note or simply add a little more magic after seeing a musical -  after all you are in the heart of theatreland. You will fall for the Sweet Temptation (£11.50) : lemon sorbet mixed with gin, pistachio liqueur (how had I not heard about this before?) and almond oil. Close your eyes and dream of Italy. It is very addictive and you will need sip after sip to get the full extent. This will make you forget your love for chocolate treats!

It is easy to chat the whole evening there. Yet at some point you are bound to feel hungry. No need to run around Covent Garden, just go to the first floor to discover Indigo. How pleasant to dine sitting in real armchairs, being able to put your arms down and relax the whole body! If you can, ask for a table near the balcony to glimpse down on the Lobby Bar. The sight reminds me of Vienna Cafés – musical sounds of glasses being cheered, silkiness of dresses, candles flames dancing. I expected the guests to suddenly start waltzing.

Through the arched windows, you can see the Lyceum where the Lion King is played. Shrek is also a street away – ideal with kids, you can walk everywhere.

Children have their own menu. The selection offers classics such as fresh spaghettis with homemade tomato sauce, mini-hamburgers. But also soups, chicken salad, yakitori brochettes. The quality of those dishes, I have found usually is lesser than adults’ portions in restaurants but not here -  I tried the fish & chips: just excellent. The team will also adapt to the family needs. My son fell in love with the sesame seed bread: the staff offered him a few more slices. My daughter fancied a simple apple for dessert: they found her one. Always with a smile, finding each request perfectly normal. This, to parents, is simply priceless.

Let me warn you. Shall you decide to keep on reading, your mouth will water and you will end up emptying your fridge. I know because I have just worked on the pictures and done this exact thing. Look at this amazing presentation of the crab tempura (£15) -  how refined, how tempting! Delicate flesh, grilled scallops, seaweeds for an additional sea touch, a little dill, touches of juicy grapefruit, orange, lime, bites of gorgeous sea bass infused with saffron, dollops of cream with herbs. Refreshing and ever so different from anything you have tried before – you won’t leave a single crumb in your plate.

The fish soup (£7) also is succulent. A light texture but filled with flavours. No need for the usual sauce, better enjoy this first class mix on its own, or maybe just some baguette croutons. At the first spoonful, you will realise how generous in clams and mussels it is. A wonderful winter option, especially if you have just walked in the cold. Ever so comforting.

As main dish, we really need to give an award to the Cumbrian chicken (Chef Tony Fleming sources as much as he can British products). The most tender I have ever tried, reducing any conversation to a mmmmh. And I do cook an excellent one myself. What is the secret? An extra ingredient? I really felt like going to spy in the kitchens. This sits on a bed of cauliflower mash enriched with tarragon jus. On the side where rich cèpes which made me nostalgic of the Bordeaux region where they are a favourite dish -  these tastes just like the way we serve them at home. perfectly cooked purple broccoli sprout added a perfect more peppery note.

Having recently succumbed to the luxury of truffles, I ordered these poached eggs infused with this exceptional mushroom. Ah, la, la mes amis -  as the Froggies usually exclaim. An exceptional polenta, creamy, melting in the mouth. The egg offered a rich golden yolk. All around, wild mushrooms in a dense parmesan cream, that you will let linger on your tongue. All this crowned with shavings of truffles. I could easily enjoy this for breakfast, lunch and dinner and never tire of it. It takes quite some skills to balance these very strong flavours so elegantly without saturating the palate.

We chose an Argentinian white wine to match the dishes -  quite a discovery for me as I usually go for Malbecs. Almond, oak, vanilla -  I will definitely need to investigate more about this region! We were delighted to see the sweet options included Canadian Ice Wine, too rarely served in London.

One Aldwych have thought of their guests with a sweet tooth -  meaning people like me who start reading the menu by the dessert part then select the rest of their meal accordingly. I was spoilt for choice. Apples with Sauternes jelly and mini-doughnuts, banoffee macarons, all chocolate plate… I could have gone for a starter-main-treat all in this section but I am told that it is not reasonable and not a good example for the kids. Such a pity. Ask about their  10 after 10 offer, though: a glass of wine and a dessert for £10 after 10pm. A delicious idea to discuss a theater play for example…

Lemon fans have to try this citrus assortment (£7). Slices of candied orange, a moist sponge cake so fragrant it wins your heart even before the fist bite, a mille-feuilles of lemon shortbreads with layers of thick vanilla cream, tangy lemon curd, orange and lime zest in a sugar syrup. Crunchy, tender, unctuous.

If you are after exotism, have the lemongrass parfait (£7), ideal to conclude such a feast. Biscuit moist with the juices of caramelised pineapple, spice up with star anise, topped with a lemongrass cloud-like mousse and some fresh pineapple. Divine. It is served with a verrine on the same theme but different textures such as this tropical granite. Someone has to tell Pierre Hermé to come and try it.

I cannot believe this restaurant does not have a Michelin star yet -  it certainly deserves it. Rush before it gets too famous -  especially as the pre & post theatre offers (17.30-19.00 then 22.00-23.15 or 22.30 on Sundays) are quite well prices: £18.5 for 2 courses and £21.75 for 3.

(To be followed -  breakfast at One Aldwych is quite something too)

One Aldwych
London
WC2B 4BZ

The first thing you notice when stepping in is the space – finally a restaurant in touristic Paris that leaves more than 10cm between tables. You can breathe and have a quiet meal. Banquettes, armchairs, bar stool effect bring a variety of comfortable options but also help to balance the conversation level – a very clever idea.

One very welcome touch on the table that shows that taste and quality here are essential – fleur de sel ( very refined and fragrant salt) and an exquisite olive oil, Château Léoube, delicate, fruity, sublime on a piece of bread. Even before opening the menu, your senses are heightened and longing for more.

On the sommelier’s recommendation, we tried a glass of Bargemone, an excellent Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, very elegant – tangy lime and green apple, a little bit of sage. A perfect match for a refined meal while refreshing the palate – we kept it throughout the meal and never thought once of asking for anything else.

An amuse-bouche of pissaladière was also brought. Nevre heard the word before? Think of it as a Southern style pizza. No tomato sauce thought, the base is an onion marmelade. I often find it slightly bitter but this one proved me wrong: the compote was made with just a little sugar and gives it a confit texture. First the sweetness, almost melting, then the salted enchovies the fruity olives. Had it not been out of the oven and extremely hot it would not have survived more than a minute on the plate.

The descriptions of each dish is almost lyrical and are sure to tempt you. Lemon and pine nut jam, salt and sugar marinated salmon, sweet bell pepper jus… Words have been chosen carefullu, intrigue, you can almost feel the texture on your tongue. My heart will melt for the Velvety soup of forgotten vegetables (France has rediscovered parsnips) with chanterelles mushroom and chestnuts (14€). Almost a carress. And so much beauty in that plate, what a range of colours! Adorable mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, chestnut nuggets: each spoonful brings a different combination, always a new surprise, enjoyed fully, with your eyes closed.

Not a soup person? Try the fine yet ever so tasty veal slices – prepared vitello tonnato style (15€). Qite astonishing – we are so used of serving it hot but this is a wonderful alternative. The presentation is very smart too -  a rectangular, narrow plate, a bed of sweet and crunchy salad, generous shaving of parmesan, pine nuts, olives, capers, parsley. After the excess of the New Year celebration, its freshness is very soothing and the portion consequent enough to make it a lone dish if time is not on your side for a longer meal. Balanced and particularly tasty.

I spent quite some time admiring those scallops à la plancha, what a picture (29€)! Celeriac mash echoes the strong character of the shell, nutty touch of the potatoes, almost caramelised baby-beetroots, chestnuts pieces here and there. A culinary waltz…

Not to be missed either - the cocotte of Iberica pork pluma (24€). This extremely tender meat (between the two shoulders of the animal) is little know but delicious indeed. Cooked in the sauce, it is heaven, satin like and you will want a spoon to finish the latter -  no way you are leaving any. Violet artichokes – ah, so rarely served! – olives, tomatoes, a little black pepper, thyme -  all the South of France is in the smell only… You will wish you could bottle it. Even a couple of weeks later, I still think of this with envy.

The dessert selection is also well worth a look. Since this is in season, I chose the chestnut verrine, Mont Blanc style (10€). The description is not accurate – verrine usually means a small glass but this is so generous it can easily be share with your lover. More complez than the Angelina version, it offers  a wonderful range of textures -  silky mousse, perfect light vanilla chantilly, ice-cream, a meringue sweet on top.

Can’t choose? Ask for the café gourmand (11€), brought with mini-versions of deserts. I imagine they vary from time to time -  on that day we had the miniature chestnut treat, a unctuous panna cotta with exotic mago purée. The macaron was home made with a perfect pistachio paste. Last but not least: a crunchy hazelnut bite, perfect with the roasted note of the espresso.

Verdict: close to the Champs Elysées but nothing to do with the overprices touristic options around. Worth every penny -  the quality of the products is irreproachable. Each allaince of taste has been carefully balanced to reflect the South of france terroir values yet bring a lighter more modern touch than what our grandmothers would have cooked. Veru honest, real fragrances -  Hugo Pinto has some magic in him. Keep his name in mind – he is set to suprise you for a long, long time.

Le Velvet restaurant
Hôtel Beauchamps
24 rue de Ponthieu
75008 Paris

Teatime in Wonderland was a guest of The Velvet restaurant

Well, sometimes, the best resolution is to get lots of sparkles of your own, those that will make your eyes and your nails glitter, hypnotise the gaze. What a better way to shine through the day, even when wind and rain threaten to take your umbrella away?

Cheers!
* Drink to the spirit of our beloved Dickens.

Smile:
* Nothing stops a taxi driver. Not even the cold.
* Do you quidditch?
* Art beats the winter blues in the Tube.
* Chips with that?

Yummy time ahead:
* Hélène Darroze will be offering her delicious Galette des Rois, the traditional French cake eaten to celebrate Epiphany, as part of the Connaught‘s afternoon tea. It will also be for sale at the hotel for people to take back home. Give them a call!
* Have a bite at the it/eat address of the moment, the Delaunay.
* Deal. Remember The Rosendale and The Avalon -  delicious (and kids-friendly) gastropubs. You can eat there for half the usual price till the end of the month!

Out of the ordinary:
* Have a closer look at the Olympic Games area.
* Fall in love with short films.
* Disco, karaoke, bowling and garden gnomes. We’re not joking.
* Dream in a London garden.