London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Discovering One Aldwych is like opening a treasure chest -  full of surprises.

The Lobby bar, elegant and spacious, has been my favourite meeting place recently. Imagine enjoying an afternoon tea (and believe me, their Battenberg is worth stopping for) or a cocktail here, amidst works of art and floral scenes… The tables are set to create mini-lounges and facilitate conversation, the atmosphere therefore cozy, intimate. You never have to raise your voice to make yourself heard, which in London is quite precious indeed.

Ideally, if it is just the two of you, try and get a space at the bar. The mixologists here have style. I expect Bond could not do better would he consider a change of career – something in the elegance of the gestures, even the way they pour the drink. Ask for one of their flamed cocktails -  the preparation is fascinating. Rory Slater, their Food and Beverage Director mentioned on the hotel’s Facebook page(worth following as they also include London tips!) he is looking at creating a signature drink which would become as iconic as the Singapore Sling is to the Raffles Hotel. I certainly will be delighted to discover this – watch that space!

The lounge also welcomes children and has mocktails on the menu (although I have seen them challenged with a glass of warm milk with a touch of cocoa sprinkled on top and yes, they will get it for you with a smile). Louise*Anne, whose favourite colour as you can guess is pink, never hesitated: the Smooth Berries (£6) had her name on it. Blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, pomegranate and cranberry juice – 5 a day in a glass! The waitress even brought a second straw so she could share with her favourite fluffy bear as well as a plate of homemade biscuits in case she did not like the savoury mix. At that, my daughter whispered to me: Is it like that every day in a princess’ life?

Note this down – dessert cocktails. What a fabulous idea to finish a meal on a lighter note or simply add a little more magic after seeing a musical -  after all you are in the heart of theatreland. You will fall for the Sweet Temptation (£11.50) : lemon sorbet mixed with gin, pistachio liqueur (how had I not heard about this before?) and almond oil. Close your eyes and dream of Italy. It is very addictive and you will need sip after sip to get the full extent. This will make you forget your love for chocolate treats!

It is easy to chat the whole evening there. Yet at some point you are bound to feel hungry. No need to run around Covent Garden, just go to the first floor to discover Indigo. How pleasant to dine sitting in real armchairs, being able to put your arms down and relax the whole body! If you can, ask for a table near the balcony to glimpse down on the Lobby Bar. The sight reminds me of Vienna Cafés – musical sounds of glasses being cheered, silkiness of dresses, candles flames dancing. I expected the guests to suddenly start waltzing.

Through the arched windows, you can see the Lyceum where the Lion King is played. Shrek is also a street away – ideal with kids, you can walk everywhere.

Children have their own menu. The selection offers classics such as fresh spaghettis with homemade tomato sauce, mini-hamburgers. But also soups, chicken salad, yakitori brochettes. The quality of those dishes, I have found usually is lesser than adults’ portions in restaurants but not here -  I tried the fish & chips: just excellent. The team will also adapt to the family needs. My son fell in love with the sesame seed bread: the staff offered him a few more slices. My daughter fancied a simple apple for dessert: they found her one. Always with a smile, finding each request perfectly normal. This, to parents, is simply priceless.

Let me warn you. Shall you decide to keep on reading, your mouth will water and you will end up emptying your fridge. I know because I have just worked on the pictures and done this exact thing. Look at this amazing presentation of the crab tempura (£15) -  how refined, how tempting! Delicate flesh, grilled scallops, seaweeds for an additional sea touch, a little dill, touches of juicy grapefruit, orange, lime, bites of gorgeous sea bass infused with saffron, dollops of cream with herbs. Refreshing and ever so different from anything you have tried before – you won’t leave a single crumb in your plate.

The fish soup (£7) also is succulent. A light texture but filled with flavours. No need for the usual sauce, better enjoy this first class mix on its own, or maybe just some baguette croutons. At the first spoonful, you will realise how generous in clams and mussels it is. A wonderful winter option, especially if you have just walked in the cold. Ever so comforting.

As main dish, we really need to give an award to the Cumbrian chicken (Chef Tony Fleming sources as much as he can British products). The most tender I have ever tried, reducing any conversation to a mmmmh. And I do cook an excellent one myself. What is the secret? An extra ingredient? I really felt like going to spy in the kitchens. This sits on a bed of cauliflower mash enriched with tarragon jus. On the side where rich cèpes which made me nostalgic of the Bordeaux region where they are a favourite dish -  these tastes just like the way we serve them at home. perfectly cooked purple broccoli sprout added a perfect more peppery note.

Having recently succumbed to the luxury of truffles, I ordered these poached eggs infused with this exceptional mushroom. Ah, la, la mes amis -  as the Froggies usually exclaim. An exceptional polenta, creamy, melting in the mouth. The egg offered a rich golden yolk. All around, wild mushrooms in a dense parmesan cream, that you will let linger on your tongue. All this crowned with shavings of truffles. I could easily enjoy this for breakfast, lunch and dinner and never tire of it. It takes quite some skills to balance these very strong flavours so elegantly without saturating the palate.

We chose an Argentinian white wine to match the dishes -  quite a discovery for me as I usually go for Malbecs. Almond, oak, vanilla -  I will definitely need to investigate more about this region! We were delighted to see the sweet options included Canadian Ice Wine, too rarely served in London.

One Aldwych have thought of their guests with a sweet tooth -  meaning people like me who start reading the menu by the dessert part then select the rest of their meal accordingly. I was spoilt for choice. Apples with Sauternes jelly and mini-doughnuts, banoffee macarons, all chocolate plate… I could have gone for a starter-main-treat all in this section but I am told that it is not reasonable and not a good example for the kids. Such a pity. Ask about their  10 after 10 offer, though: a glass of wine and a dessert for £10 after 10pm. A delicious idea to discuss a theater play for example…

Lemon fans have to try this citrus assortment (£7). Slices of candied orange, a moist sponge cake so fragrant it wins your heart even before the fist bite, a mille-feuilles of lemon shortbreads with layers of thick vanilla cream, tangy lemon curd, orange and lime zest in a sugar syrup. Crunchy, tender, unctuous.

If you are after exotism, have the lemongrass parfait (£7), ideal to conclude such a feast. Biscuit moist with the juices of caramelised pineapple, spice up with star anise, topped with a lemongrass cloud-like mousse and some fresh pineapple. Divine. It is served with a verrine on the same theme but different textures such as this tropical granite. Someone has to tell Pierre Hermé to come and try it.

I cannot believe this restaurant does not have a Michelin star yet -  it certainly deserves it. Rush before it gets too famous -  especially as the pre & post theatre offers (17.30-19.00 then 22.00-23.15 or 22.30 on Sundays) are quite well prices: £18.5 for 2 courses and £21.75 for 3.

(To be followed -  breakfast at One Aldwych is quite something too)

One Aldwych
London
WC2B 4BZ

Ah, how lovely to walk through Shoreditch again, such a familiar neighbourhood but with the constant surprise of street art. Keep your eyes open (and down) – there are still some of Pablo Delgado’s miniature works around… What are your plans for the week-end? None yet? Then scroll down…

That’s art, baby:
* Pretend you are Mime Marceau.
* This ice-sculpting festival should be pretty cool.
* Let’s be serious – Sky News and the Somerset House have put together an impressive collection of pictures.
* A colorful and fun exhibition that should delight curious minds -  at the London Transport Museum.
* find your luck at the Wellcome Collection.
* Love the glass sculpture at the entrance of the V&A? Why not go and see what else the artist can do?
* And from the first floor of your double decker…

So British:
* Warm up in front of a lovely chimney fire in a pub.
* Or listen to classic albums there.
* Or enjoy a traditional treat.
* Get to know everything about gin with this craze walk.

Take the little ones along:
* And rediscover Quentin Blake.

Yummy time ahead:
* Cheers to you!
* Dine in a cinema.
* Fancy a squirrel pie?

Out of the ordinary:
* Take those ice-skating shoes and dance.
* White your thank you cards at Tatty devine.
* Lord of the rings will take you through the night.
* Sing a cappella.
* Sip a drink in a tipi on a London roof. You read that right.
* Try this Pay what you want guided walk.
* And now, you can even personnalise your soup tin.

Another page turned. Good resolutions taken in the warm cocoon of the festivities. Good resolutions shaken hard by the first day back to work, sometimes even lost on the way there, we’ll pick them up again on the way back home. Sigh, cross out 2011 and write carefully, 2012 each time we write a new date. Such a feeling that everything would be brand new and be slightly surprised that nothing has changed, still lost in the magic of December.

Well, sometimes, the best resolution is to get lots of sparkles of your own, those that will make your eyes and your nails glitter, hypnotise the gaze. What a better way to shine through the day, even when wind and rain threaten to take your umbrella away?

Cheers!
* Drink to the spirit of our beloved Dickens.

Smile:
* Nothing stops a taxi driver. Not even the cold.
* Do you quidditch?
* Art beats the winter blues in the Tube.
* Chips with that?

Yummy time ahead:
* Hélène Darroze will be offering her delicious Galette des Rois, the traditional French cake eaten to celebrate Epiphany, as part of the Connaught‘s afternoon tea. It will also be for sale at the hotel for people to take back home. Give them a call!
* Have a bite at the it/eat address of the moment, the Delaunay.
* Deal. Remember The Rosendale and The Avalon -  delicious (and kids-friendly) gastropubs. You can eat there for half the usual price till the end of the month!

Out of the ordinary:
* Have a closer look at the Olympic Games area.
* Fall in love with short films.
* Disco, karaoke, bowling and garden gnomes. We’re not joking.
* Dream in a London garden.

How better to describe the Comptoir Libanais than to compare it to a ray of sunshine on a dull rainy day? A little travel in itself – a brightly coloured universe, mouthwatering mezze, gorgeous mountains of exotic cakes… Instinctively, your gaze will wander on the tables around you, choosing your meal already, slightly disappointed not to be able to reach out with your fork and try a little bit of this lovely dish on your left.

Their new address in South Kensington already is quite a success and is just adored locally. The terrace overlooks the pedestrian street and is a real pleasure in any sunny day. Let alone, being just outside the tube and on the way to Hyde Park, what a better place to select a picnic?

The menu is as exotic as in the other branches – takes you elsewhere in just a few bites. Start with their homemade lemonades like the apple-ginger-mint (£2.35) to put you in the mood or the orange blossom and pomegranate for a more poetic touch: such a welcome change from the usual soft drinks.

Now let go. Don’t resist. I found it hard to focus on the menu -  too many delicious descriptions! Really, the best plan is to come here with a wonderful friend and choose a wide selection of dishes to share. It is ever so pleasant to butterfly from one plate to another, combining tastes and textures randomly, creatively. Like those Lamb Kibbeh (£4.65), filled with fragrant lamb, onion and pine nuts. Or a salt and sweet effect with the grilled paneer served with an amazing fig and rose jam.

Don’t know where to start? Go right to the counter and get yourself a selection like this one (on the menu for £7.95 also exists as a bigger version for 2). Hummus to die for, slightly smoked aubergine dip, falafel with its rich notes of chickpea and coriander, a freshly made tabbouleh, slightly lemony, a lovely lentil salad, amazing bright pink pickled turnip slices, a sambousek filled with melting feta and warm triangles of pita bread. Quite a feast.

If you are after something warm, moussaka, koftas, shish taouks also are on the card and smell ever so nice. I chose their gorgeous tajine (£7.95) with aubergines  -  the tastes linger on the tastebuds, ending on the sweet chickpea note, the velvety touch of red pepper, oh and just a little bit of that organic yogurt too. Impossible not to add semolina to the dish, the sauce just calls for it.

Meat lovers will probably go straight to the mixed grill (£12.95) -  lamb and chicken kofta, marinated chicken cooked as shish taouk, generous portions, rice cooked with minutely cut onion, matching the nutty taste of the grilled meat.

It is easy to order so many dishes that you will barely have a space for deserts – remember those piles of cakes that just beg to be eaten. Obviously, Comptoir Libanais knows and has little plates all prepared with a few to take away. Or you could enjoy the nearby museums and come back for a touch of sweetness afterwards: those are lovely treats with hearts of hazelnut, walnut, cashew nuts or heavy with honey…

After all, what better than an exotic afternoon tea to take away the winter blues? Pour yourself a cup of mint and rose tea (£2.45) and you will be spell-binded, ready to dream away.

On the side is a small deli with thousand colours – Moroccan honey, date cream with almonds, rose or pomegranate syrup… – just what you need to take this little holiday pause back home.

Comptoir Libanais
1-5 Exhibition Road
London SW7 2HE

Teatime in Wonderland was a guest of Comptoir Libanais.

Shiny machines that look right out of a secret lab, soft shhhh-shhhh song when they come to life, purring when they grind the coffee, wonderful aroma when the latter is then freshly brewed. Simple decoration  with modern lines, touches of colour here and there, blue cups that make you feel like sitting in front of a lagoon, delicious cakes forcing you to stand way too long at the counter when you had decided you just wanted a drink to warm you up. I can tell you in advance they will win – you might as well give up straight away. Why do I love the place so much? Because the espresso is extra strong and just one will keep you awake all day. Trust me – you will thank me beginning of January.

On Saturdays, you can even train to be a barrista – drop them a line!

Prufrock
23-25 Leather Lane
London EC1N 7TE

Hunt down the last few gifts on the list, write the last few cards, hug your favourite colleagues at work, have a nice time, see you next year, comparison of festive plans, who will travel the largest number of km in the shortest time, at least there is no snow this year, no chaos, what a relief, a last card on the way out, forgot to do some for the neighbours, must do that before I go, fill a suitcase, not enough space, empty the suitcase, grumble,  get a bigger one, sit on it, chuckle, in a nutshell: speed up to be able in a few hours to slow down and relax. A merry Christmas to you all!

: We wish you a merry Christmas:
* Quick, a few days left to have a look at this life-size Advent calendar.

Tick-tock, tick-tock, there is shopping left to do:
* Cup of tea, anyone?
* A few places for late/last minute shopping, inclusing on the 24th.

Yummy time ahead:
* Add a little exotism to your last minute preparations and have a Turquish coffee. And maybe a cake. Or two.
* Eat smart. For lobster, click this way, we promise it will not break the bank.
* Fed up with the cooking spirit? Have a break. and a champagne brunch.
* Quick – note in your 2012 agenda your Monday appointments: delicious ramen.

That’s art, baby:
* Apocalypse at the Tate Britain.

A little touch of magic:
* Look out for leaves on the pavement. Between autumn and spring.
* Marvel at one of the most beautiful synagogues in London.
* Royal Mail will launch Roald Dahl stamps in January -  preorder them, they will be gone in no time!

I ♥ London:
* Fall in love again with the city.
* Well done! Fans of the inspiring blog Tired of London, tired of life will be delighted it will soon be followed by a book beginning of January. Well done to the gentle author!

Ah, Baker street and its forever atmosphere of a Conan Doyle adventure. Deep inside we all wish Sherlock homes would come rushing our way, deducting the culprit from a clever analysis. Look -  his profile is everywhere, on the tiles of  the tube station, on the shops. He even has his own museum, at his “real” address.

I am often asked which part of London is best to stay when coming for an express visit. Well, why not this one, especially if you are traveling Eurostar. St Pancras is a mere 4 subway stops away, no change. Marylebone High Street and Oxford street are within walking distance. the circle line will even take you towards Spitafields if you fancy looking for street art, walking down Brick Lane or visiting Columbia Flower Market.

Now, where to stay in that particular neighbourhood? Try the Park Plaza Sherlock Hotel -  two minutes walk down the street when stepping out of the tube. No way you can get lost. A lounge space with inviting leather armchairs will first greet you -  a Sherlock sculpted in wood  looking at you from the bar. Reception is right after this. Check-in is quick and easy, always with a smile. The team will check straight away (even if you are before check in time) whether your room is ready and will explain where the gym, sauna, spa, restaurant are. A lovely welcome always makes you relax and feel on holiday straight away. Someone else is in charge and knows what is going on, you can let go and enjoy. On the walls, illustrations of the famous detective catch the eye – oh, what a pity they do not sell those as postcards!

We had, that day, a wonderful executive studio. So much space – 38 square meters! I can remember my first flat in Paris being less than that. Hotel rooms in Paris (remember I am a froggie) are usually pretty small even in 4 star hotels so this is a real bonus. Makes you regret having packed light for once: I feel like filling drawers and cupboards. On the side is a work space where to connect your laptop -  the cable for the net is provided, as well as a real keyboard if you only came with your smartphone and want to check your mails on the plasma screen – always handy.

Think that’s it? Oh no -  another lounge space makes the room even larger and has its own television. The sofa can be unfolded, providing additional bedding. Perfect for a family of four, everyone having a little world of their own.

The bathroom is well thought too -  spacious, shower and bath separated, wooden and metallic notes for a design yet warm touch. Lovely to find Elemis products too – the British spas favourite brand. Not only the usual treat (shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, body cream) but bath salts, a body buff and even an instant refreshing gel which takes all the tensions off your shoulder after an afternoon walking.

For those, exhausted, who can’t face going back out to hunt for a restaurant (we have all been there), do not hesitate to go down to the restaurant-grill within the hotel. It offers a soothing atmosphere and contrary to most restaurants in town, there is no loud music drowing the conversation. Even better, it has been awarded an AA rosette.

Let me tell you more about the menu -  you will not regret staying in. Let’s start with the Cornish white crab meat (£10) -  generous, lemony, bed of ripe avocados, lovely sweet note of grapefruit, peppery touch of cress…

You could also go for the roasted Cornish king scallops – such a tender heart, melts on the tongue, impressive size, served with a refined cauliflower purée, smooth, beautiful contrast with the caper sauce which adds character to the dish -  a real signature.

And really, you could stop here, totally satisfied, sipping a glass of Sancerre La fuzelle – a fruity Sauvignon blanc, crispy, green apple and lime aromas (£7.75 a glass). Just a dessert to finish on a sweet note.

But you would miss quite something.

The meat is extraordinary. On our waitress’ advice, we tried the beef Rossini, foie gras and truffle sauce. £24 but oh, so worth it. And 200 grams of it too! The stereotype might be that British never succeed to cook rare to perfection -  certainly proven wrong here. The dish is perfect, just perfect. Ever so tender, you will barely need a knife. The foie gras has been freshly prepared, heightened by the truffle taste. A 5 star dish.

The chips (£3) are sure to put a smile on your face -  as much for their size than for the cute presentation.

I cannot hide my pleasure at seeing duck on the menu. While this is very common in France, it is often absent on this side of the Channel. This one (£17) comes from Gressingham, renowned for their high quality of products. The dish is extremely generous – not one but two portions, leg and fillet, slightly crunchy on top, juices so good you will wish you had saved a little bread, fig roasted in honey, grainy flesh on the fragrant one of the duck.

Try some wood roasted vegetables with it (£4) -  beautiful mix of carrots, courgettes, aubergines, always a perfect comfort food in winter.

We definitely were not hungry anymore at that point but to be honest, I can never resist the call of crumble and this one was rhubarb and blackberry (£6). Nice tangy taste balanced by juicy berries, crumbs rich in butter and sugar, served hot, real vanilla ice cream melting. What is not to like?

Another classic  -  after such a  feast, you really want simpler tastes, soothing somehow. Like this crème brûlée (£6), again with real vanilla, crunchiness of the caramel hiding a perfect unctuosity.

The desert wine was just unforgettable. It even beats my beloved Sauternes! The Browns Brothers late harvest muscat (£6.75 per glass) instantly makes you picture orange trees blossoming, thick and white petals releasing their poetic fragrance in the summer air of an exotic country. On the palate, notes of honey, apricot, peach. I have to tip my hat off to that one. A pure Australian nectar.

A last smile to the team who took real good care of us all along and we go back to our room. Ah, the wonderful feeling of a fresh duvet, fluffy pillows! After such a wonderful meal, I expected to sink right in the mattress. I loved the quietness of the room -  not a single noise from the street or the neighbours, so nice after the buzz of Christmassy and crowded London. Needless to say, it took seconds to fall asleep. Yet, if you have energy left, you will find a little Conan Doyle to be read…

In the morning, the space proved again an enjoyable luxury. We could empty and reorganise our bags, cocoon in the bathroom while the other read the magazines available in the comfy sofa, window slightly opened… Another positive point -  at least for me who is easily cold – is the fabulous heating in that building.

Breakfast offers more than the usual buffet -  pastries, meat, fresh fruit. you can order a great choice  à la carte -  omelettes, English breakfast, eggs to your preference, energy pizza (yes!)… Or why not this succulent toasted bagel with salmon, poached egg and cress? What a better way to start the day? If you have a seet tooth, follow my lead and jump right to the pancake part. With maple syrup, of course.

Checking-out is quick, nice chat with the team who take the extra time to know what you thought of your stay, not just listen blandly. Verdict? A comfortable hotel, ideally located in the center, prices being reasonable compared to most hotels in the heart of London. I highly recommend the executive studio if you are coming with two kids.

Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes
108 Baker Street
 London W1U 6LJ

Like it? have a look at this one -  still a Park Plaza but on the County Hall side. The view is, how could I say? Wow.

Teatime in wonderland was a guest of the Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes.

How about doing something different before the year is over? Like, maybe, not just buy the Big Issue to have a clear conscience but stop and chat, ask whether they would like a coffee, make it just a little bit more human than erasing them from your mind after walking past. Or join an Unseen Tour, strolls through London led by homeless guides who therefore know the neighbourhoods like the back of their pocket. Even the most blasé will learn fabulous facts from them. You can also take part in a Sock Mob – volunteers go round with sandwiches and socks, chat with homeless people, try to cut through the isolation, a few minutes that can make a difference. Christmas is not just about buying gifts but sharing, even with total strangers.

The Christmas touch:
* Last week, Santas were racing through London. This Saturday, they will be skating in Hyde Park.
* See a festive movie in a deconsecrated church, all decorated for the occasion. Even better, it is for a good cause.

That’s art, baby:
* Not pop TV but punch TV.
* For the Andy Warhol fans -  the last chapter.

Yummy time:
* Your mouth will water at the only sight of this Sunday Roast.
* Warm up with a flamed cocktail at the One Aldwych. And check in on Four Square too – you will get a mini mince pie crumble with your drink.
* Test a mozzarella bar.
* Now, here is a fab idea-  an afternoon tea with a selection of mini-cocktails rather than just a normal sized one.

Take the little ones along:
* Inspired by Dicken’s A Christmas Carol, the London Museum proposes kids workshops.

Stocking fillers:
* Pop-up boutique + theatre = fun
* Add a little Beatles touch.

Hum along:
* Join the Xmas carols at the Borough Market.
* Dance, rock and twist at the Royal Festival Hall. It’s free!

A touch of magic:
* Share. At least your time and help prepare community meals.
* Don’t follow the trend, get a hula hoop and dance yourself happy.
* A stroll through London. Christmas-themed. Yep. In a kayak.