London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Rather than rushing to the underground tunnels, jump in one of the vintage buses leaving from Trafalgar Square. Yes, real routemasters! With their rounder angles, thir bright ruby red, they bring a smile to the lips, like meeting an old friend. Even better, it will not cost you more than a normal bus fare and you can use your Oyster or Travel card… Two lignes depart from the square, #9 and #15. Prefer the latter which will take you up to the Tower of London.

You will drive through Fleet Street – look at the richly sculpted buildings, the Court of Justice… It was home to the most famous newspapers at one time. The second biggest river of the City (the first being the Thames, of course), Fleet, actually runs underneath. A few minutes later, you will be at St Paul’s – splendid view if you are on the deck level, worth a picture. Just adter the cathedral look out on your right for the Bracken House. The building may not look like much, with its brick walls but what an entrance with this one meter wide astronomical clock!

Bernard Bracken was pretty powerful in its time – chairman of the Times, no less! -  and had it installed in 1955. The paper was printed here until 1980 when new techniques forced a move to the Docklands.

The clock shows the time, date and zodiac signs in touches of blue enamel and gold metal. But focus on the center -  see the serious, almost stern face? This is Winston Churchill’s, personal friend of Bracken’s (who, by the way, worked for the politician as his Minister of Information). What a great proof of friendhsip and support to picture him as a sun God!

Feel like a walk with a difference? Well, you can try this one, following a sundial trail through London…

But if you prefer to continue on the Churchill theme, have a look at the splendid statue in front of the Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Or visit his War rooms, wher he took his strategic decisions.
The best place still is in Kent, if you have access to a car: in Chartwell sits his gorgeous home and you could swear he has just left the room, cigar in hand…

Pssst: did you know he used to buy his cheese from Paxton & Whitfield?

The fashion, at this time of the year, does not dictates so much a winter coat then the famous poppy in its buttonhole. A detail that intrigues many a tourist since children, mums, fashionistas, builders, City power-suits seem to wear it without distinction. You can even see a giant plastic version at the front of some cabs…

Have you ever wondered where it comes from? Picture the end of the WWI. The Flanders battlesfields are now covered up, grass is growing. One morning, they are entirely red with poppies. A poetic, symbolic and yet extremely sad note.

Each year, paper versions are sold to the profit of The Royal British Legion. They in turn support British veterans – no matter which war they fought – and their families.

The town, meanwhile, is painted red with those flowers…

Here, @ Trafalgar Square, along the fountains:

In front of war memorials:

The most moving touch probably is in front of Westminster Abbey, where the grass is tinted red with them. Each part represents a regiment, each cross a relative, friend, colleague…

Wondering where to get one? You will come accross volunteers in the streets exchangin them for a coin or two -  the sum is left to your discretion. Alternatively, most shops or receptions will have a box on the side of the counter. You can also find a wide range of poppy themed objects on this website – it’s all for a good cause…

Pssst: Women and animals also have their own memorial in London…

The UK seems very proud of theur role in the two world wars. I have never seen so many memorial – London particularly has an impressive collection. You can’t miss them – most of them are decorated with wreath of poppies.

Oh, I’m not criticising the idea – far from me. But so many makes them even more transparent to the regular passer-by, just another statue on the way, red petals flying in the wind.

One, though, really caught my eye:

Unusual, isn’t it? I do not think we have one in France at all.

Absurd? Not really, when you consider the numbers of animal who died in wars from the beginning of the XXth century to the Irak war. Gosh, we’re talking about an estimated 8 millions of victims for WWI only! And not basic cattle killed in the fields by an explosion. No, poor animal carrying weapons and men. Dogs trained to find injured soldiers. 200, 000 pigeons transporting data during WWII. Mules with their vocal cords slashed not to be heard by the enemies. Of parachuted animals – dogs, horses… – only 1 out of 8 would survive. Dolphins used to find mines and keep our ships safe.

Some even you would have never imagined: glow-worms used by soldiers in the trenches to read!

60 special heroes received the equivalent of the Victoria Cross. One story will bring tears to your eyes – Mary the pigeon who flew back to her base to ring secret information, although the German hawks in Calais had ripped her neck and breast open…

Animals in war memorial
Brook gate
Park Lane
London W1

Another memorial worth seeing is the one dedicated to the women’s role during WWII…