London: Tea Time in Wonderland

Cake lovers, your attention please. You may have thought you were an expert, knew the sweetest places in town, delicate pastries and fragrant cups of teas. You may even have had a sugary walk per neighbourhood.

This book will get you hunting again. How could you have missed this irresistible cheesecake? And here, a lavender cake? Ooooh, what about those adorable vintage teapots…

A clever guide divided in everyday pleasures, extraodinary afternoon teas with a twist, take away temptations, and well done a section with vegan/allergies places.

Warning: never, ever open without a homemade dessert on the side. The pictures will make your mouth water in no time.

Tea & cake -London, £9.99

I worked, for a few years, as an executive assistant. I still recall organising lunches in meeting rooms. All would go well unless a participant had particular needs. I tried again and again to explain that vegetarians surely would love something else that a salad. In the end, i would go and buy frozen vegetable lasagnas myself. allergy to nuts? Complete panic. Several food exceptions in the same meal?  The conversation would start with a sigh. Finding a smart restaurant to accomodate everyone could be nightmarish: few addresses, dull menu.

Fairmont hotels have finally put a stop to this. To them, there is no obstacle – just a welcome challence to use different kind of foods. And so, 60 of their best chefs met and brainstormed, convinced they could delight everyone -  whether you are on a diet and limited in calories, allergic, diabetic, gluten-free, veggie, vegan… Beginning of 2011 was launched the Lifestyle Cuisine Plus program.

Chef Chad blunston from the Newport Beach palace recently presented a master class to present the excellency of this concept. Mark Finden, sous chef at the Savoy River Restaurant joined in – yes, this so famout 5* hotel is part of the Fairmont family…

This gastronomic adventure took place in the Poggenpohl workshop in Harrods – design kitchens with  modern, smooth, laquered lines:

Chef Chad Blunston wanted to share a slice of dream, a little of Newpport and the Orange County. The hotel, you see, is close to amazing beaches with views on the Pacific. Need I say any more?

Seing cooks at work is always quite fascinating. You learn the structure of the dish, its balance. First a touch of avocado purée with crème fraîche and mustard. the a spoonful of green beans, citrus zest, red pepper and grilled almonds. A sumptous crunchy mix that constrasts perfectly with the velvety base. on the side, the most tender yellowtail tuna, rolled in salt and pepper then seared – just enough to provide two different textures. It just melts in the mouth. And this only counts 190 calories, less than a Kit Kat!

I also rediscovered California wines. When is the last time you tried one? Dinner was served with a 2008 Kendall Jackson Chardonnay. And my, what a gem. Lemony, golden, exotic notes, a touch of green apple… Very refreshing, matches fish to perfection, plays on nuances. Very easy to drink but complex in taste.

I tried very hard to concentrate on conversation but how can you when a frying pan is right in front of you, making colourful and fragrant vegetables jump in the air? Way too moutwatering, makes you turn vegeterian without looking back.

For this second dish, Chad really wanted to rock our world. If quinoa only evoques a crunchy and dry texture – go and see him. He roasts it lightly, add chopped celery and onions, soals it with vegetable stock -  each spoonful is just moist and tender and ever so flavoured. And yet, this is nothing compare to the fish fillet. On this generous piece of hallibut, the chef added a layer of home made marmelade, thick candied zests that sing of sunshine., then thin slices of heirloom tomatoes and portobello mushrooms. A luxurious combination of sweet and salt -  the guy is a genius. Another idea is to add the orange jam to a chicken before roasting it. It is all about concentrating the flavours for a maximum effect at every bite. Fairmont Newport must be some kind of heaven!

Very surprisingly – we were full. This last dish was 435 calories  but the richness of the experience just satisfied the hunger. Neither did I feel like a snack two hours later. Whichever your life style and eating preferences, a feast awaits you at Fairmont Hotels – from their restaurants to in room service. Time to plan your next break!

Strolling through the Real Food Festival, we put some of those on our shopping list:

* The Seriously Italian Company ‘s pestos – richly flavoured and organic products made in London. We just could not resist the walnut and pistachios ones. use them on pasta, as chutneys…

* Those creole soda breads from The Global Fusion are just exquisite – pure happiness at each bite and as beautiful as delicious. How to choose between apple crumble, apple-plum-oats, carrot-cherry, mango? We ended up taking a nice selection back. Bonus point, they’re vegan!

* The rose limonade by Fentiman, for its amazing taste of Turkish delight.

* Doukan‘s Moroccan dishes which tell stories of other lands, other spices. Their exotic chutneys will make you feel like cooking a tajine straight away : aubergine, orange blossom-fig, tomato-cinnamon, lemon-coriander… Visit the restaurant for even more treats.

* The clever alliances by Café On : each macaroon is flavoured (champagne, black pepper, tomato, sakura…) and can be matched to the cheese of your choice, quite a gourmer sandwich. Fennel and goat’s cheese is quite something!

* Sloe Motion‘s elegant gins, vodkas, whiskies: a fabulous sweet drink to finish a meal or add to a cocktail. Very addictive, though. Quite a nice gift for father’s day.

* La Cave  Fromage‘s savoury cheese macaroons. Surprising poetic bites, each flavous keeping its personnality: pear-roquefort, raspberry-parmesan, blueberry-brie, hazelnut-goat’s cheese.

* La Fromagerie‘s new range of crackers, particularly the caraway ones who work marvelously with the nutty cheese as gouda.

* We fell in love with Womersley‘s floral and fruity vinegars: blackcurrant-rosemary, lemon-basil-juniper, lemon-black pepper-lavender… Just in time for summer salads, a wonderful gift for all gourmets.

* The Oreo-green tea sponge cake by My Sweet Tooth Factory -  they never last long no matter how huge the slice is! This year, no doubt, I will order my birthday cake from them.

* British tea – no kidding! This one grows in Cornwall and brings quite a nice brew. Tregothnan also proposes eucalyptus, manuka, nettle infusions.

Let us get rid of stereotypes straight away: you can be a vegetarian and still be a gourmet. Not adding any meat to your daily diet does not mean you have killed your tastebuds in the process.

Yet, do propose to your colleagues/friends to have lunch in a veggie place and the hesitation is quite palpable… They already picture a lonely salad or a plate of grilled tofu and expect to walk out particularly hungry.

My advice? Cheat. Take them to Amico Bio. Instead of pronouncing the V-word, present the concept of eco-eatery. Great Italian dishes prepared with organic seasonal products. Very few would say no to a plate of just cooked pasta, cheese and rice croquettes or moist risotto.

This address is just behind the Smithfield market, in one of the narrow historic streets, particularly charming at that tie of the year when leaves get this vibrant green shade. 5 mn from the Barbican tube station and here we are.

Just after stepping in, before one of the waitresses welcomes you with a smile, your attention is distracted by the day’s selection: foccacia, Italian cheese, tarts and pastries… Talk about whetting people’s appetite!

Decoration is pretty simple with wooden tables and chairs. No pretentious glossy effect – just a relaxing atmosphere.

The menu is organised the Italian way: Stuzzichini, Antipasti, Pasta et Risotti, Secondi and Dolci. 2 pages of choice and I’m feeling pretty hungry by now. Italian food certainly is fab at making you forget there is not a single piece of meat – the ides of pasta, of rich sauces, of satisfying textures filling your mouth is enough to make smile in happiness. You will barely see the word tofu – but what do you say of gnocchettis with tomato, olives and caper or vegetable tempuras with a sweet and sour sauce? Dishes will differ from one day to the other as it depends what surprises the market will bring along.

Still trying to make my mind, I see a plate of ravioli (£7) going to another table. The aroma of basil is seducing: same for me, please! The pasta really are a nice size and are filled with smoked cheese, and come with roasted red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Amazing how these two varieties differ in taste, the latter like a firework in your mouth. Add a piece of foccaccia (£3.50) to soak the juices!

The restaurant also lists a number of organic drinks: juices, cola, wines and even gin and whiskies (quite a discovery for me!). I will go for a glass of La Raia 2009: Barbera grape bring sunny, round notes which remind me of the South of France black cherries.

My second dish arrives, wraps with a lovely hazelnut touch around a beautiful selection of colourful roasted vegetables. An equivalent to raita (yogurt and cucumber sauce) is served on the side and adds a fresh note to the mix. Quite an assortment: broccoli, onions, cauliflower and a slight aniseed not with fennel. I hope they will follow Carluccio’s idea and will propose picnic sets for the summer – this would be a perfect treat to take along, especially with the Barbican terrace being so close…

I never ever resist zucchini frittas (£2.50 for a sizeable portion), the best I have eaten so far. For once thet are not heavily oily, nor too rich, nor too cooked. On the contrary, the chef has made them crunchy on the outside but kept the heart mellow, adding just a pinch of salt to make them addictive.

And there, on the desert page, what do I see? Baba (£5)! I haven’t had one for years. And after all, the ingredients are all organic so that would be… good for me, right? It is served warm as the rum has just been warmed and poured. I would have preferred the vanilla cream more liquid to spread it better on each spoonful… The extra touch is, of course… the amarena cherry on the cake! Be warned: you may not walk so straight after this

Verdict ? I like the idea of getting my 5 the day without thinking about it. Easy healthy option, as pleasurable as a “normal” restaurant, moreover guilt free! I never once missed the absence of meat. To be fair, I did not think much about it during the meal.

The very relaxed atmosphere was the best for me – I can picture coming back with the kids (they do have fresh cut fries on the menu) before taking them to the Barbican gallery (since I always moan about their overpriced café!)

They also propose a few vegan and gluten free choices – ideal to get everyone around the same table!

Amico Bio
44 Cloth FairLondon
EC1A 7JQ
Closed on Sundays

Teatime in Wonderland was a guest of Amico Bio

British are not know for their chocolatier, bur believe me my friends this one steps aside.

Instinct usually guides me to complex, poetic, floral alliances: jasmin… orange and geranium… basil… Moroccan mint… Here you’ll also find starwberry or fig marshmallows. Enought to get your radar mad! But classics are a little piece of heaven too.  Do fall for the chocolate and liquid salted caramel. Oh, I have to close my eyes even now.

Decoration is retro, comforting. A bunch of flowers made with colourful sugared almonds here, chocolate laybugs there. The packaging was inspired by an French engraving of 19th century chocolate mould an declined in different colours – butterflies cut out of it fly away on the walls.

As Petra from the Choc star van, Chantal Coady was led by her passion for chocolate. A punkish art sudent, she just jumped for adventure in 1983 – only with a few weeks experience at Harrod’s. Well, that’s a lesson: always follow oyur dreams, especially if they’re 70% cocoa made.

Do prefer the Knightsbridge boutique.  A window in the floor gives a view of the workshops going on. You can take chocolate lessons here, whether you’re a grown-up or a junior chocoholic.

This is one of my secret hideaways. There is a tiny garden behind -  a lovely court, only a handful of tables, white walls, mosaics and a few white roses… Blue sky above you, round mirrors reflecting details… So peaceful! Get rid of your watch and iphone, get a coffee and one of their marvelous truffles and just forget everything.

Rococo Chocolates
Belgravia/Knightsbridge
5 Motcomb Street
London

Vegans will find their heaven here too.
Cross the street and gasp at the huge meringues and splendid tarts from Ottolenghi.
Macaron-fans will be delighted to learn Pierre Herme will be opening his boutique a street away from here in September 2010. You’ll have to beat me there!